Backpacking in Tunisia: Budget Guide for Backpackers
Posted: February 9, 2020 | Tagged: Tunisia
My new Mini-Guide to Backpacking Tunisia
There are no personal views. Just facts. And focuses on the needs of the traveller on a budget. So you'll not find any 'nice' hotels, taxi fares or recommendations for guides. Nor any eating options.
And it is not a comprehensive guide by any means.
There are no personal views. Just facts. And focuses on the needs of the traveller on a budget. So you'll not find any 'nice' hotels, taxi fares or recommendations for guides. Nor any eating options.
And it is not a comprehensive guide by any means.
Arriving in Tunis:
I arrived by ferry from Marseille. The boats dock at Goulette. Nearly everyone gets 3 months visa-free.
So when you walk out the terminal, just keep walking. On the left after the CTN ferry office is a bank. I changed 20€ but the rate was the same as in town. Sunday it will be closed. There is an ATM.
Keep walking and when you get to the rail crossing turn right. 50 meters further is the Goulette station. The network is the TGM. A single ticket costs 700 millimes. The ride to town is just 2 stops, Tunis Marine and the end of the line. From there it's a 20-minute walk to Bab el Bhar, the entrance to the Medina on the eastern side.
So when you walk out the terminal, just keep walking. On the left after the CTN ferry office is a bank. I changed 20€ but the rate was the same as in town. Sunday it will be closed. There is an ATM.
Keep walking and when you get to the rail crossing turn right. 50 meters further is the Goulette station. The network is the TGM. A single ticket costs 700 millimes. The ride to town is just 2 stops, Tunis Marine and the end of the line. From there it's a 20-minute walk to Bab el Bhar, the entrance to the Medina on the eastern side.
Departing Tunisia - Tunis Carthage International Airport
I arrived by ferry, departed by plane from Tunis Carthage International Airport. There is no rail connection so you take the bus. Well, you could take a taxi but Nomadic Backpacker doesn't take taxis.
Buses #635 runs every 30 minutes from Tunis Marine Bus Station to the airport. Buy your ticket at the guichet. It's cheap. And I mean dirt cheap. 400millimes. It'd cost more to replace fluids lost through sweating if I walked.
Buses #635 runs every 30 minutes from Tunis Marine Bus Station to the airport. Buy your ticket at the guichet. It's cheap. And I mean dirt cheap. 400millimes. It'd cost more to replace fluids lost through sweating if I walked.
Money in Tunisia:
The currency is the Tunisian Dinar. TND subdivided into 1000 millimes. So things are quoted as 1,400 for example. As of 2020, 1€ is 3TND. It's a bit weird having cents like this but you get the hang out of it pretty quickly.
There are coins in 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 500 millimes, 1, 2 and 5 Dinar. There are notes in 5, 10 and 20 and 50 Dinar.
You probably won't see a 10millim coin; I went to a few banks to ask for one and they didn't have.
There are coins in 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 500 millimes, 1, 2 and 5 Dinar. There are notes in 5, 10 and 20 and 50 Dinar.
You probably won't see a 10millim coin; I went to a few banks to ask for one and they didn't have.
Transportation in Tunisia
Travelling in Tunisia is easy. There is a rail network but the schedules are not comprehensive and I didn't take any trains whilst in Tunisia.
There are long distances buses but as like the trains, they ain't going hourly like in most countries.
So I took the minivans, known as the Louage. They are 9 seaters including the driver, so you don't have to wait too long for them to fill up and they don't stop en route so they are fast, efficient and cheap.
There are Louage stations, normally located next to the long-distance Gare Routière bus stations and pretty centrally located.
They sport a different colour stripe depending on the service. The red stripe ones run between cities and towns. The yellow and blue ones serve outlying villages.
Here's a red striped louage at the station in Sousse, bound for El Jem:
There are long distances buses but as like the trains, they ain't going hourly like in most countries.
So I took the minivans, known as the Louage. They are 9 seaters including the driver, so you don't have to wait too long for them to fill up and they don't stop en route so they are fast, efficient and cheap.
There are Louage stations, normally located next to the long-distance Gare Routière bus stations and pretty centrally located.
They sport a different colour stripe depending on the service. The red stripe ones run between cities and towns. The yellow and blue ones serve outlying villages.
Here's a red striped louage at the station in Sousse, bound for El Jem:
And a blue one in Douz going to Kibili:
And the yellow one at Ras En Jela coming from Bizerte:
Sometimes there is a guichet (ticket office), sometimes you pay the driver. They are cheap. An hours journey costs around 5 Dinar +/-.
Backpacking Tunisia: Top Things to see in Tunis
- Get lost in the medina
- Go to Café Panorama for rooftop views of the city and an almost bird's eye view of the Al Zaytuna Mosque
- Take the TGM train out to Sidi Bou Said and train hop or walk back via the Roman ruins of Carthage
Top Things to see in Tunisia
Places to go outside of the capital, how to get there and where to stay.
1. ​Northernmost Point of the African Mainland:
Ras En Jela or Cape Angela, the northernmost point of Africa. And well worth a day trip from the capital Tunis.
Take a louage to Bizerte, have a look around town have a bite to eat then head to Ras En Jela.
Take a louage to Bizerte, have a look around town have a bite to eat then head to Ras En Jela.
2. Kairouan:
Kairouan is the 4th Holiest City in Islam after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem.
3. El Jem:
The UNESCO Roman Amphitheatre In El Jem was built in 238AD
4. Douz:
Former stop on the Trans Saharan caravan routes. Now a jumping-off point for tourists to ride camels or ATVs into the Sahara. La Porte du Sahara, 3km south of town:
5. Tozeur:
Getting here is half the fun. Not cos you have to wait a week for transport but because you get to cross the Chott El Djerid Salt Lake, the lowest point in Tunisia at -17m/-55.8ft below sea level.
You don't need a specially adapted vehicle. You don't need to take a tour. All you have to do is to take a louage from Kibili as they built a perfectly good 2 lane highway across it.
You can actually drive on the salt flats but the surface isn't always firm so it is not recommended.
It's just a unique experience. I came up from Douz, made a change in Kebili and carried on to Tozeur.
Chott El Djerid is a large endorheic salt lake, meaning there is no outflow to rivers or oceans, only evaporation.
In Arabic: شط الجريد Šoṭṭ el-Jarīd and translates as 'Lagoon of the Land of Palms'.
I made a short 20-second video. It's totally crap but it gives you the idea:
You don't need a specially adapted vehicle. You don't need to take a tour. All you have to do is to take a louage from Kibili as they built a perfectly good 2 lane highway across it.
You can actually drive on the salt flats but the surface isn't always firm so it is not recommended.
It's just a unique experience. I came up from Douz, made a change in Kebili and carried on to Tozeur.
Chott El Djerid is a large endorheic salt lake, meaning there is no outflow to rivers or oceans, only evaporation.
In Arabic: شط الجريد Šoṭṭ el-Jarīd and translates as 'Lagoon of the Land of Palms'.
I made a short 20-second video. It's totally crap but it gives you the idea:
I also made a 1/2 day trip to Nefta, 23km to the west and just 25km from the Algerian border. The selfie with the sign behind was more satisfying than seeing the Corbeille. Nefta is also considered by most Sufis to be the spiritual home of Sufism, the mystical branch of Islam but its importance was lost on me.
7. Visiting The Archaeological Site of Sbeitla:
The main reason to go to Sbeitla, is to visit the Roman Ruins of Sufetela:
8. The Archaeological Site of Mactaris:
I used El Kef as a base to explore The Archaeological site of Mactaris.
9. The Roman Ruins of Bulla Regia:
Still using El Kef as a base, I explored The Roman Ruins of Bulla Regia.
Hostels and Hotels in Tunisia for the budget traveller
General notes on hotels.
Most have A/C units for the summer heat and they could use them to heat in winter but for some reason, they don't.
Also, there are not so many hotels as I was expecting. The medina in Tunis has just the Auberge de Jeunesse and a hotel spa. Others are to be found at the medina entrance. The medinas in Morocco in comparison contain many hotels. In Tunisia, this is not so. El Jem has 1 five-star hotel and I didn't see one single back street cheapie.
Cheap hotels don't seem to change the bedding. Some just have a mattress with a sheet and a multitude of blankets to keep you warm.
I stayed in 7 towns and cities across Tunisia.
Most have A/C units for the summer heat and they could use them to heat in winter but for some reason, they don't.
Also, there are not so many hotels as I was expecting. The medina in Tunis has just the Auberge de Jeunesse and a hotel spa. Others are to be found at the medina entrance. The medinas in Morocco in comparison contain many hotels. In Tunisia, this is not so. El Jem has 1 five-star hotel and I didn't see one single back street cheapie.
Cheap hotels don't seem to change the bedding. Some just have a mattress with a sheet and a multitude of blankets to keep you warm.
I stayed in 7 towns and cities across Tunisia.
Where to stay in Tunis:
The Auberge de Jeunesse aka the YHA. In January it's very quiet but it was getting a few guests a night. Hot water showers, fast WIFI, breakfast included BUT it's not the cheapest option in town.
I found the Hotel el Qods and you can get a room for 2 for 30 Dinar.
The Hotel Qatar costs 35 Dinar and across the street another cheapie, 50 Dinar. All 3 are just off Rue des Tanneurs 20 meters from the Rue Mongi Slim, the road around the Medina. This is not a comprehensive list naturally. I saw them and went and asked.
I found the Hotel el Qods and you can get a room for 2 for 30 Dinar.
The Hotel Qatar costs 35 Dinar and across the street another cheapie, 50 Dinar. All 3 are just off Rue des Tanneurs 20 meters from the Rue Mongi Slim, the road around the Medina. This is not a comprehensive list naturally. I saw them and went and asked.
Where to stay in Kairouan:
I stayed at the Hotel Ettaoufiq. This is as cheap and cheerful as it gets. 2020 price for a room, just 20 Dinar. WIFI but no hot water. The road is a bit busy even during the night. Ultrabasic option. The bathrooms are best not talked about.
Where to stay in Sfax:
I stayed at the Auberge de Jeunesse. Again, it's super spartan but clean. WIFI is fast. Super hot water showers, even hot water in the basin. 2020 price, just 20 Dinar. A simple breakfast is 2 Dinar extra. Which works out cheap as you get a pot of coffee which gives you about 3 cups. Bread, jam and yoghurt. Very quiet at night. It's about a 20-minute walk from the medina.
Found a 30 Dinar room not too far from here, Hotel L'Etoile. Also in the medina, a tiny place, Hotel Medina. The price on the wall said, single room, 5 Dinar, double, 10 Dinar. I have no idea that a room could cost so little. And for that price, you have to think that it probably ain't very nice.
Found a 30 Dinar room not too far from here, Hotel L'Etoile. Also in the medina, a tiny place, Hotel Medina. The price on the wall said, single room, 5 Dinar, double, 10 Dinar. I have no idea that a room could cost so little. And for that price, you have to think that it probably ain't very nice.
Where to stay in Douz:
Hotel Elmarzougui 20 Dinar with breakfast (high season only) 15 Dinar without. Basic rooms. Hot water showers. Washing line on the rooftop. Go for a room with no shower or sink inside. The drainage whiffs a bit.
Other cheap options; Hotel Restaurant Bel Habib just down the road a bit and then on the road to the Porte du Sahara, just out of town, a campsite. Very well set up but you pay per person plus the tent and per bike, car or bicycle and for the WIFI it's 2 Dinar unlimited. Secure and clean though of course lots of sand/dust.
Other cheap options; Hotel Restaurant Bel Habib just down the road a bit and then on the road to the Porte du Sahara, just out of town, a campsite. Very well set up but you pay per person plus the tent and per bike, car or bicycle and for the WIFI it's 2 Dinar unlimited. Secure and clean though of course lots of sand/dust.
Where to stay in Tozeur:
Hotel Karim. 25 Dinar for single occupancy. Lots of rooms. The old guy on reception speaks English;) For 25 Dinar it's very good value. Breakfast is 3 Dinar.
Where to stay in Sbeilta:
Auberge de Jeunesse Motel.
A single room is as low as 16 Dinar though I was put in a double which is 32 for 2. Breakfast is 6 extra. I passed on that as 2 coffees, bread, yoghurt can cost as little as 2 Dinar. Hot water showers, fast WIFI, internal courtyard. There are no Air Conditioning units like at other hotels I've stayed in so it would be very hot in summer.
The Hotel Al Mahdi has singles for 46, doubles for 72 and triples for 88 Dinar.
Inner courtyard at the Auberge in Sbeitla:
A single room is as low as 16 Dinar though I was put in a double which is 32 for 2. Breakfast is 6 extra. I passed on that as 2 coffees, bread, yoghurt can cost as little as 2 Dinar. Hot water showers, fast WIFI, internal courtyard. There are no Air Conditioning units like at other hotels I've stayed in so it would be very hot in summer.
The Hotel Al Mahdi has singles for 46, doubles for 72 and triples for 88 Dinar.
Inner courtyard at the Auberge in Sbeitla:
Hotel Ramzi: Single room with breakfast, heating in the evening, shared toilet+sinks, no shower, 25 Dinar. 35 Dinar for en suite. Very clean, friendly, no WIFI, quiet at night. It's on Avenue Habib Bourguiba. And I used El Kef as a base to explore the surrouding area.
Notes for hotels. All prices as of January 2020.
All mentions of hotels and cafés are entirely for informational purposes only. The author is not receiving any kickback.
All mentions of hotels and cafés are entirely for informational purposes only. The author is not receiving any kickback.
Other facts that you should bear in mind:
December, January and February are the winter months in North Africa. It gets cold. It was down to about 5 deg C early January in Tunis and 4 deg C in Kairouan. Days can get nice in the sun but the temperature drops as soon as the sun goes down. The temperatures aren't really the issue. It's the fact that hotels for the traveller on a budget are not heated. The inside temperature is like that outside. Bring a puffer jacket and a woolly hat. You'll be grateful that you did. Hot showers are not always offered.
The rest of the year ranges from hot to scorching. Drink lots, wear a hat, wear sunglasses and stay out of the sun as much as possible.
Tunisia is an Islamic country. The call to prayer will wake you for sure. Driving standards are pretty crap. All vehicles are dented and scrapped. Seat belts are only put on when there are police checkpoints. Passive smoking rules here. And as for garbage, there's lots of it, everywhere, except at the well kept ticketed sites. Knowing French will make life a lot easier.