Backpacking the former Surrey Commercial Docks in Rotherhithe
Posted: August 26, 2024 | Tagged: United Kingdom
More off-the-wall backpacking, this time exploring Rotherhithe in East London, an area steeped in history.
Rotherhithe is a district in the London Borough of Southwark; honestly, the only thing I knew about Rotherhithe was the tunnel.
Rotherhithe was the location of the Surrey Commercial Docks which began operating back in the late 1600s and were still in use up until 1969.
Rotherhithe was the location of the Surrey Commercial Docks which began operating back in the late 1600s and were still in use up until 1969.
In the 1980s, the docks were filled in and there was extensive housing development with warehouse conversions and rebuilds as part of the Docklands' Regeneration Program run by the London Docklands Development Corporation.
So, from my lodgings at the YHA Thameside, I backpacked Rotherhithe.
1. Surrey Basin Bascule Bridge and Lock
The Surrey Basin Bascule Bridge was built in the 1930s and is still in its original position over the Grade 2 listed lock between the Thames and the Surrey Basin (now known as Surrey Water) next to the Old Salt Quay public house but is no longer operational. It replaced the earlier swing bridge, of which there were several around Rotherhithe.
2. Rotherhithe Gas Holder
A gas holder, also known as a gasometer, is a large container storing natural gas or town gas. The one here in Rotherhithe was built in 1849 and opened in 1855. It closed in 1959 and will soon be dismantled. The ground will be used for yet another housing development.
3. Rotherhithe Tunnel
The Rotherhithe Tunnel is one of 3 road tunnels under the Thames, the others being, the Blackwall Tunnels, and the Dartford Tunnels (they have 2 tunnels each) and is open for road traffic, cyclists and pedestrians (which is not recommended due to safety reasons (yet is still allowed).
The construction of the tunnel began in 1904 and opened in 1908. At 1,482 m. It connects Rotherhithe to Lime House across the river in Tower Hamlets.
The construction of the tunnel began in 1904 and opened in 1908. At 1,482 m. It connects Rotherhithe to Lime House across the river in Tower Hamlets.
4. The Rotherhithe Tunnel - Ventilation Shafts No 1 & No 2
The ventilation shafts contain ventilation fans which supply fresh air to the tunnel.
5. Brunel Museum and the Thames Tunnel
The Thames Tunnel was the first tunnel known to have been constructed successfully underneath a navigable river. It was built between 1825 and 1843 by Marc Brunel, and his son, Isambard.
The Thames Tunnel was a pedestrian tunnel and this was the original entry shaft:
6. The Mayflower Pub
The Mayflower Pub is named after the Mayflower ship which sailed from Rotherhithe in 1620 with Pilgrims for the New World. Of course, the legend is told from the side of the invaders. Read the link I put in, for the truth.
7. St Mary's Church
Christopher Jones was the captain of the Mayflower and was buried at the St Mary's Church in Rotherhithe.
8. The Watchhouse Café
The Rotherhithe Watch House dates from 1821 and it is where a watchman would have been on duty to guard against body snatchers who had a habit of stealing corpses from the nearby graveyard, for medical research at Guy's Hospital. It is now known as The WatchHouse (no space) Cafe. I stopped off for a morning coffee.
9. Finnish Church Merimieskirkko
A lot of timber from Scandinavia passed through the docks in Rotherhithe, which was the Finnish Seamen's Mission.
10. St Olavs Norwegian Church
St. Olav’s dates from 1927. Its foundation stone was laid by Crown Prince Olav (later King Olav V of Norway) and was built for the Norwegian sailors bringing timber and is still used by the Norwegian expat society.
11. Canada Water
Canada Water is named after the former Canada Dock which was the main dock for ships going to and from Canada. In the redevelopment program in the 80s, Canada Dock was mostly filled in and the Surrey Quays Shopping Centre was built on top of it. This is the Canada Water Library:
12. Greenland Dock Bascule Bridge
The Greenland Dock bascule bridge was built in 1949, and was originally located in Deptford but was moved to Rotherhithe in 1959 to replace the old swing bridge, that carried the Redriff Road over the cut between Greenland Dock and Canada Dock.
13. Greenland Dock + Norway Dock + South Dock
Greenland Dock
Greenland Dock was the oldest of London’s riverside docks.
It was named so because of the whaling ships which would come in from Greenland with whale blubber which would be boiled up in ‘boiling houses’ situated on the quayside of the Dock, to make oil which was in turn used in lamps, for machinery lubrication and the manufacture of soap. The leftover bones of the whales were then used in the manufacture of umbrellas and ladies' corsets.
It was named so because of the whaling ships which would come in from Greenland with whale blubber which would be boiled up in ‘boiling houses’ situated on the quayside of the Dock, to make oil which was in turn used in lamps, for machinery lubrication and the manufacture of soap. The leftover bones of the whales were then used in the manufacture of umbrellas and ladies' corsets.
The Thames is of course tidal so they needed pistons and pump houses to control the level of the water in the docks
Norway Dock
Norway Dock handled timber from Norway.
South Dock
South Dock was a sub-dock of the Greenland Dock opened in 1811.
They were part of what was collectively known as Surrey Commercial Docks.
14. Russian Dock Woodland
The Russia dock was used for the import of timber from Russia and Scandinavia. In the 1980s it was transformed into a woodland.
15. Stave Hill Ecological Park
Next to the Russia Dock Woodland is the Stave Hill Ecological Park. It's a great place for families with kids. From Stave Hill, there are great views all over East London.
16. Nelson Dock Pier
The pier is named after the former Nelson Dock, a dry dock, which was used for shipbuilding until 1968. Supposedly it is NOT named after Horatio Nelson (Really?).
17. Pageant Stairs Obelisk
An obelisk for the modern concrete steps nearby, named after the Pageant Wharf.
Here are some more photos from Rotherhithe:
A bust of James Walker, the engineer at the Surrey Commercial Docks:
A bust of James Walker, the engineer at the Surrey Commercial Docks:
Great views across the Thames to Canary Wharf:
This is a Thames Dolphin. Boats could be moored up at the entrance to the Surrey Basin:
Clock Tower at the Surrey Docks Office:
The Brunel Pub:
The Ship Pub:
