Notes from Jaffna - Sri Lanka
Posted: October 5, 2024 | Tagged: Sri Lanka
Jaffna, the capital of the northern province of Sri Lanka. Far enough away, 398km by train, in fact, to be off the tourist trail, with a legacy to deter most of the 2 week 'flash-packers' that occupy the Sri Lankan coconut roti trail. Thankfully. I am tired of seeing overweight Euro chicks in their camel-toe denim shorts or NIKE 3/4 gym leggings.
These notes are based on my travels in Sri Lanka in 2016.
These notes are based on my travels in Sri Lanka in 2016.
Between 1983 and 2009, Sri Lanka's civil war raged and ravaged this northern part of the country. For 26 years, The Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE), more commonly known as the Tamil Tigers, fought for independence. Jaffna and the far north was their stronghold!
Derelict, battle-scarred buildings are a common site across the north. The area is still in need of extensive de (land) mining.
I rode the night MAIL TRAIN north from Colombo Fort. I elected 3rd class seat. As cheap as chips but comfortable enough though not conducive for even the briefest of naps, for I am on a super low ball breaking budget as money is running low after nearly 3 years without any income and have to release the masochist streak in me once again. Am not looking to feel the 'real' Sri Lanka, I am trying to eek out my remaining cash for as long as I can.
Am back travelling with the AUSSIE GUY again having been round the south coast alone. He need to go pick up his Indian visa from Kandy. He's old school too. We didn't even swap email addresses. We said we'd meet at 7 and we did. That's how life used to work pre internet!
Am back travelling with the AUSSIE GUY again having been round the south coast alone. He need to go pick up his Indian visa from Kandy. He's old school too. We didn't even swap email addresses. We said we'd meet at 7 and we did. That's how life used to work pre internet!
Continuing with the theme of 'how low can we go (on today's budget), we shared a room at the YMCA. Ultra basic but clean and, of course, cheap!
On needing food, we found the real price of Sri Lankan food. In 4 days, we were given the regular price every time.
The dual pricing system in Sri Lanka for the price for tourists is normal here from the government, who charge us 30 greenbacks where the locals get in for a few cents, for any religious site across the country, to the old lady at the market. Sri Lanka was a great, rough and ready adventure, but being over-charged was freaking annoying.
On needing food, we found the real price of Sri Lankan food. In 4 days, we were given the regular price every time.
The dual pricing system in Sri Lanka for the price for tourists is normal here from the government, who charge us 30 greenbacks where the locals get in for a few cents, for any religious site across the country, to the old lady at the market. Sri Lanka was a great, rough and ready adventure, but being over-charged was freaking annoying.
Despite the heat, we walked a lot. To a couple of temples, the northernmost point of Sri Lanka @ Cape Sakkottai (above) and a failed attempt to get to the FORT HAMMENHIEL as it was well and truly off limits being a navel base. But under a blistering sun, we walked across the 3km causeway (below):
Getting to and from Jaffna:
Firstly, travel permits are no longer required to travel to Jaffna. Trains are cheap and safe. Buses cost a lot more and the driving (safely) skills of all drivers in Sri Lanka has a lot to be desired. The night train, Colombo to Jaffna, departs Colombo Fort, daily at 20:30. 3rd class unreserved costs just 320 Rupees. Arrives around 5-6 the next morning. The Express day train back from Jaffna departs at 06:10. 3rd class costs 520 Rupees. Arrives around 2 pm.
Where to stay in Jaffna:
The YMCA on the Kandy Road, ultra basic but clean (sheets changed after each guest unlike many home stays across SRL), no wifi. single 850Rupees, twin 1100Rupees. dorm beds also but these may be just for locals, 500Rupees. Get a room on the back side. road is a bit noisy.
Firstly, travel permits are no longer required to travel to Jaffna. Trains are cheap and safe. Buses cost a lot more and the driving (safely) skills of all drivers in Sri Lanka has a lot to be desired. The night train, Colombo to Jaffna, departs Colombo Fort, daily at 20:30. 3rd class unreserved costs just 320 Rupees. Arrives around 5-6 the next morning. The Express day train back from Jaffna departs at 06:10. 3rd class costs 520 Rupees. Arrives around 2 pm.
Where to stay in Jaffna:
The YMCA on the Kandy Road, ultra basic but clean (sheets changed after each guest unlike many home stays across SRL), no wifi. single 850Rupees, twin 1100Rupees. dorm beds also but these may be just for locals, 500Rupees. Get a room on the back side. road is a bit noisy.
