Solo on the Annapurna Base Camp Trek | Nepal
Reposted May 7, 2020
Hiking Solo on the Annapurna Base Camp Trek referred to as ABC from here on in. My first time in Nepal, only my 2nd time to go on a multi-day trek.
This post has been rewritten for Nomadic Backpacker and is based on my travels in 2011
I spent a week in Kathmandu with a lot of the time in the bathroom - squatting and puking over the floor as there was no bucket. When there was a lull in the stomach cramps I was trying (unsuccessfully) to get into a fellow traveller's knickers or drinking beer.
As thin as hell I headed to Pokhara but not before getting myself checked out at the western run clinic. All tests came back -ve save for some bacterial infection. With a supply of antibiotics, it'd clear up.
As thin as hell I headed to Pokhara but not before getting myself checked out at the western run clinic. All tests came back -ve save for some bacterial infection. With a supply of antibiotics, it'd clear up.
I rested for just 2 days in Pokhara to let my belly recover and to sort out the documentation. The trekking permit and park entry permit. This is from 2011 so most likely something different and more expensive is in place. Route profile card and trekking map. In reality, you don't really need the map for the trek itself as there are maps painted on the walls of the guesthouses and everywhere trails are marked.
Keen to start trekking, I took a bus to the start of the trek.
You can go alone or you can take a guide and/or porter. Of course, I chose the former option. I was strong enough to carry my own pack, I can navigate with my eyes shut and no guide in their right mind would want to go at my pace. I travel light and I travel fast.
I don't do beaches and I don't do crowded places but in the high mountains, I am in my element.
Keen to start trekking, I took a bus to the start of the trek.
You can go alone or you can take a guide and/or porter. Of course, I chose the former option. I was strong enough to carry my own pack, I can navigate with my eyes shut and no guide in their right mind would want to go at my pace. I travel light and I travel fast.
I don't do beaches and I don't do crowded places but in the high mountains, I am in my element.
The first day through the Himalayan foothills to Landruk where I spent the first night. Awesome feeling. Absolute no issues with energy levels. I had spent 2 weeks in Darjeeling @2000m and the 2 weeks in Sikkim were at similar altitudes. There are very few flat sections of footpaths in Nepal. You're even going up or down, mostly very steeply. And always steps, endless steps, down one valley, cross the river and back up the other side. 400 - 500m climbs every time. My legs burnt with lactate but boy I was feeling good.
Early morning view above the rooftops of Landruk towards the snowy peaks. The treks are known as Tea Shop Treks. You pass through small villages such as Landruk every 2 hours or so. They are well set up to cater for the trekker. Simple rooms and awesome food. Everything must be carried up so prices rise the higher you go. Understandably.
I had to smile yesterday, sitting outside my room. The footpath goes through the homestay, the European tourist, all kitted out for a snowstorm (I'm in my shorts), Goretex jacket, hood up, brand new hiking boots that looked like they had just been taken out of the box and those dammed Leki poles going click click click on the nice smooth footpath, looking like they are on a mission to God knows where and then the porter ambles by, a big smile on his face, in flip flops and 3 bags tied together and the strap going around his forehead, the favoured carrying method here, shame on you tourists, able-bodied and healthy but sooooooo utterly pathetic but at least you keep the porters in a job, he's getting 3US$ a day, the agency is getting 12US$ from you for him, the porter is smiling, he's getting paid and he is laughing at you. They greet me with a BIG namaste.
Night 3 at Duerali. I slept well in the rarified air. Each day I was waking at 6. By 7 after Dahl Bhat and porridge and 3 mugs of tea, I'd be on my way. Stopping for liquid at 9, more porridge at around 11 and around 2 I'd be in the guest house relaxing with a cold EVEREST beer and yet another bowl of porridge and watch the other trekkers wander in after getting caught out in the pre-monsoon showers which started around 2, every day.
Machhapuchhre or FISHTAIL MOUNTAIN @6693m, revered by the local population as particularly sacred to the god Shiva, and hence is off-limits to climbing.
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Everything must be carried up on the backs of the locals. They start carrying from an early age. They are used to the thin air, the hard conditions. They become porters and then if they can master a foreign language, guides.
Day 4. Annapurna Base camp. 4130m. Arrived 8:13 am.
Breakfast in bed at 5 am The dining room was full of others who found no bed and were still fast asleep at that hour. Me and my roommate an ex-army Swedish guy, nice bloke!
Left at 5:45 alone, a bit chilly, just about light, cold wind blowing down the valley. After 20 minutes I adjusted my clothing, long pants off, shorts on, cut off Indian army socks for leg warmers. 1 T-shirt with arm warmers and my waterproof jacket on back to front to keep the wind off, no need to keep the back covered, my rucksack did that. And I looked so dam sexy!!!
Non-stop all the way, good pace, easy rhythm, no hard effort, not affected by the altitude. EASY!
Massive views of Annapurna South, 7219m, Annapurna 1, 8091m and the FishTail Mountain, 6997m... WOW, what beauty. I love it here!
Breakfast in bed at 5 am The dining room was full of others who found no bed and were still fast asleep at that hour. Me and my roommate an ex-army Swedish guy, nice bloke!
Left at 5:45 alone, a bit chilly, just about light, cold wind blowing down the valley. After 20 minutes I adjusted my clothing, long pants off, shorts on, cut off Indian army socks for leg warmers. 1 T-shirt with arm warmers and my waterproof jacket on back to front to keep the wind off, no need to keep the back covered, my rucksack did that. And I looked so dam sexy!!!
Non-stop all the way, good pace, easy rhythm, no hard effort, not affected by the altitude. EASY!
Massive views of Annapurna South, 7219m, Annapurna 1, 8091m and the FishTail Mountain, 6997m... WOW, what beauty. I love it here!
After warming up with chai and getting lots of photos I descended to Deurali where I spent a second night. No real need to spend a sleepless night in Annapurna Base camp guest house. I'd met others the night before and all complained of the cold and the shortage of breath.
End of day 5 - Kimrong 1829m a long long day, even by my standards. Don't offer to come hiking with me!!!!!! I am 43 and will kick your butts!
All-day I was umming and erring about where I should sleep for the night. I lost altitude all day. 1000m, down and down, then the path kicked up again, 400m straight up, steps but I blasted up them non stop, was delirious at the top, had a snack and then down another 800m to the river and found a homestay!!!!....
End of day 5 - Kimrong 1829m a long long day, even by my standards. Don't offer to come hiking with me!!!!!! I am 43 and will kick your butts!
All-day I was umming and erring about where I should sleep for the night. I lost altitude all day. 1000m, down and down, then the path kicked up again, 400m straight up, steps but I blasted up them non stop, was delirious at the top, had a snack and then down another 800m to the river and found a homestay!!!!....
Day 6 early morning. I was in bed at 7:45 pm, asleep seconds later. The sun is already up. A short day is on the cards, well, there's a big climb and a crazy steep descent down the other side and back up a few hundred metres. Should be there in time for lunch. This trip takes most people 7-8 hours.
End of day 6. Landruk again. I like the homestay here! Friendly, best food ever and warmer. I can wash my stinky stuff.
Had a great day! Uphill 450m in 1 hour, making it easy, had some food and down the other side as was planned, God my legs were sore but the rhythm was intact. easy easy easy.
End of day 6. Landruk again. I like the homestay here! Friendly, best food ever and warmer. I can wash my stinky stuff.
Had a great day! Uphill 450m in 1 hour, making it easy, had some food and down the other side as was planned, God my legs were sore but the rhythm was intact. easy easy easy.
End of day 7. Tadapani - 2640m.
The joys of going solo can go where the hell I want, so I backtracked 3 hours down the hill, up the hill and up some more to where I was yesterday (1 hour from where I had slept in Kimrong)..... 3 hours of precious energy only having to do it all again and then turned left! Easy walk on a little-used track, was a delight!
The weather is on the change, no clear skies, hazy sun. I had the best days!
Day 9, on my way down, stopping for a yak cheese buttie, mmm LEKKER. Time to get going, rain coming!!!!!
12 midday!!!! walk over, what a great trip. I will come back. I wanna go to Everest Base camp next time, need more cold-weather gear and be here in the fall, not spring!!!!
The joys of going solo can go where the hell I want, so I backtracked 3 hours down the hill, up the hill and up some more to where I was yesterday (1 hour from where I had slept in Kimrong)..... 3 hours of precious energy only having to do it all again and then turned left! Easy walk on a little-used track, was a delight!
The weather is on the change, no clear skies, hazy sun. I had the best days!
Day 9, on my way down, stopping for a yak cheese buttie, mmm LEKKER. Time to get going, rain coming!!!!!
12 midday!!!! walk over, what a great trip. I will come back. I wanna go to Everest Base camp next time, need more cold-weather gear and be here in the fall, not spring!!!!
