Duhok – Backpacking in the Republic of Iraq – Kurdistan Region

I arrived in Duhok, having crossed the Ibrahim Khalil Border from Turkey.

Duhok, Northern Kurdistan, is a decent place for travellers and backpackers for a few days. It makes a nice introduction to the region for those entering from Turkey.

There are a few things in town to keep you busy, and you can make day trips to quite a few places, too. I spent 4 nights in Duhok. It made for a comfortable and interesting stay.

Nomadic Backpacker in front of the I love Duhok sign

For a decent breakfast, head to the Dunya Restaurant:

Breakfast at the Dunya Restaurant

Wander through the Duhok Bazaar:

Wandering through the Bazaar in Duhok, Kurdistan

For a great lunch or dinner, opposite the Dunya above, is the Omara Restaurant. I ate there, 3 days on the trot. Cheap, filling, friendly staff, great nosh! With every meal, you get an assortment of side dishes and soups and after, they bring you tea.

Lunch at the Omara restaurant in Duhok, Kurdistan
Omara Rest in Duhok, Kurdistan

I stayed 3 nights at the Slemani Palace Hotel, great location, super friendly staff. I was on the 5th floor. Great views over the town and the mountains behind. It’s next to the Marjan Restaurant on 11 Aylol Road on which is on Google Maps.

View of the town and mountain from the Slemani Palace Hotel in Duhok, Kurdistan

Beyond exploring the town’s bazaar and finding places to get a good feed (which is an activity in itself), here are my top things to see and do in and around Duhok.

Top Things to Do in and Around Duhok

People Watch in Nawroz Park

In the evening, when the sun is less intense, join the locals hanging out in the Nawroz Park. Just to the left in the photo below is a place serving up great ice cream:

Nawroz Park in Duhok

Duhok Dam

The Duhok Dam is just a short walk from town. What I found amazing was that you could just walk across, taking photos. The dam is 60 m high and can hold 52,000,000 m3 of water.

Also quite bizarre, there is a resort at the bottom of the wall.

I walked a short way to the right and took a soft drink, overlooking the Duhok Dam Lake:

Duhok Dam in Duhok, Kurdistan

Walking across the top of the Duhok Dam:

Walking across the Duhok Dam in Duhok, Kurdistan

Walking across the top of the Duhok Dam, with the Kurdish Flag painted on the wall:

Walking across the Duhok Dam in Duhok, Kurdistan

If you go to the right, there is a small, make-shift cafe. Makes a great spot to enjoy the view:

Duhok Dam in Duhok, Kurdistan

Selfies at Duhok Dam:

Selfie at the Duhok Dam in Duhok, Kurdistan
Selfie at the Duhok Dam in Duhok, Kurdistan

The Mar Ith-Alaha Church

Mar Ith-Alaha Church is said to be the oldest church in the city of Duhok. According to tradition, this church was built on the spot where Mar Ith-Alaha was stoned around 379.

For me, it’s interesting to see a catholic church in a predominantly muslim country. Sadly, the doors were closed when I visited.

The Mar Ith-Alaha Church in Duhok, Kurdistan
The Mar Ith-Alaha Church in Duhok Kurdistan

I like to explore the Jewish, Armenian, and Christian Quarters in the Middle East.

Amadiye

Heading out of the city on a day trip with a fellow traveller, we jumped in a shared taxi to the small town of Amedi, more commonly referred to as Amadiye. There were no other passengers, so we paid for the four seats ourselves. This is a major disappointment for solo travellers in Kurdistan. If you want to go anywhere, it becomes quite expensive.

​There are many alternative spellings. Amedi, Amadiye and even Amadiyah.

Amedi was once the ancient capital of the Emirate of Bahdinan, a semi-independent and autonomous emirate which lasted from 1376 to 1843.

The weather didn’t play ball. Heavy rain sadly ruined the day for us, but we went to see the Amadiye Mosque.

The impressive 33-meter-high minaret was built in the 16th century by Badini Emir Sultan Hussein Wali.

Amadiye minaret in Amedi, Kurdistan
Amadiye Mosque and Minaret sign
Amadiye minaret in Amedi, Kurdistan

Map of Amadiye showing the main sights:

Tourist Map of Amadiye

Sign showing the way to the Bahdinan – Mosul Gate:

Bahdinan - Mosul Gate sign

The Western Gate as it was also known as, was one of just two gates into the City of Amadiye. The Eastern Gate no longer exists.

The Western Gate in Amedi, Kurdistan

The Bahdinan Gate dates from the 13th Century and served as the main entrance to the fortified city of Amedi, once the capital of the Bahdinan Empire:

The Western Gate in Amedi, Kurdistan
Inscription at the Western Gate in Amedi, Kurdistan

This is one of 3 two thousand year old rock carvings, showing a guard holding a spear in his right hand and gripping a sword with his left. The carvings date from the 1st Century BC and the 2nd Century AD.

Carvings at The Western Gate in Amedi, Kurdistan
Bahdinan Gate, Amedi, Kurdistan
Bahdinan Gate, Amedi, Kurdistan

Views from the Bahdinan – Mosul Gate in Kurdistan:

Views from the Bahdinan - Mosul Gate in Kurdistan
Views from the Bahdinan - Mosul Gate in Kurdistan
Views from the Bahdinan - Mosul Gate in Kurdistan

The Mira Graveyard, also referred to as the royal graveyard, is a small cemetery said to have been built for Badini Emir Sultan Hussein Wali (1534-1570 AD):

Mira Graveyard built for Badini Emir Sultan Hussein Wali

Statue of Badini Emir Sultan Hussein Wali:

Statue of Badini Emir Sultan Hussein Wali:

At the Gate of the Emirate Palace:

The Gate of the Emirate Palace

Then the rain fell in torrents. We took shelter in a cafe and then made a dash back to the entrance to the town and got a shared taxi back to Duhok. It was the same driver as we had on the way out. That just shows you the absence of passengers in these parts.

View of the hill, which is Amedi:

Amedi Hill

Lalish

​We had to negotiate quite hard to get to Lalish. We got a ride with two other passengers who were going to Erbil, and since Lalish is sort of on the way, our driver dropped us at Shekhan and got us a ride with another driver to take us up to Lalish, wait for us and then drive us back to Duhok.

I struggled to find the words to describe Lalish, so please refer to this article on BBC Travel. Just enjoy my photos:

Conical Shrines of the temples of Lalish
Conical Shrines of the temples of Lalish

Yazidi women dressed in traditional clothing:

Yazidi women dressed in traditional clothing in lalish, Kurdistan
Nomadic backpacker with man from Lalish, Kurdistan

Entrance to the tomb of Sheikh Adi ibn Musafir at Lalish in Kurdistan:

Entrance to the tomb of Sheikh Adi ibn Musafir at Lalish in Kurdistan

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