NOMADIC BACKPACKER
  • HOME
  • INDEX
  • About
  • ATM Fees
  • Featured
    • Kurdistan
    • Mexico City
    • Northern Cyprus
    • Tunisia
  • Favourite Countries
  • CONTACT

Inside the Amna Suraka Red Prison - Sulaymaniyah - Iraqi Kurdistan

Posted: June 16, 2025

Visiting Amna Suraka, the Saddam Hussein Red Prison in Sulaymaniyah, Kurdistan.
Amna Suraka Museum in Sulaymaniyah
Warning: This post contains disturbing text and images
Photo of the main building at Amna Suraka with the damage clearly visible:
buildings at the Amna Suraka Museum in Sulaymaniyah showing damage when the Peshmerga liberated it
Amna Suraka, also known as the Red Prison, was the headquarters of the Mukhabarat, Saddam Hussein’s intelligence agency.

When Saddam came to power in Iraq in July 1979, one of his first initiatives was to establish a general security directorate in every province, a total of 19. The first one was in Sulaymaniyah. They told everyone that it was just another government office. But actually, it was a prison, known for its brutality during the Baath regime.

Amna Suraka was a Killing House for Saddam and his henchmen, including Chemical Ali. A place where the regime’s rivals and critics – mostly students, Kurdish patriots, and other dissidents – were imprisoned, tortured, and raped.

Vice referred to Amna Suraka, as 
The World’s Most Depressing Museum.

There are many other disturbing places around the world. I have been to a few of them.

​S-21, Tuol Sleng, in Phnom Penh, was an interrogation centre, where few people came out alive. Again, if you were deemed a threat to the regime, you didn't have much:
S-21, Tuol Sleng, in Phnom Penh
The House of Terror in Budapest was the headquarters of the pro-Nazi Hungarian Arrow Cross Party, a far-right Hungarian ultranationalist party led by Ferenc Szálasi, who were responsible for the murder of ten to fifteen thousand civilians, mostly Jews and Romani. And when the Nazis left and the Russians arrived it became the headquarters of the Soviet Political Police (the AVH) whose role it was to hunt down anyone who opposed the rule that Moscow had over Hungary, ie, political criminals.

​The concentration camps across Europe. They were Nazi Death Camps. Period.

​The Armenian Genocide Memorial Complex in Yerevan:
Armenian Genocide Memorial
I visited them all. They are places of extreme sadness, and it just makes you wonder.

My visits to these places remain unblogged. They were just too sombre, too upsetting, yet needed to be seen.

But here I felt compelled to bring you a reminder of the past.

And it really makes you wonder how a human could inflict such terror on the next person, that such hate could exist.

The Belgian Memorial Camp in Kigali:
Belgian memorial camp in Kigali

The Liberation of Amna Suraka

During the 1991 Battle of Sulaymaniah Iraqi, the people of Kurdistan together with the Kurdish fighters known as Peshmerga, launched a full on assault on all government buildings and detention centres, and after 2 hours of heavy fighting, they stormed Amna Suraka, killing over 800 secret police and Iraqi soldiers that were stationed there.
​​

By March 8, the entire city of Sulaymaniyah was under Peshmerga control.

Amna Suraka opens as a museum

Following the liberation of Kurdistan from Saddam’s regime, and with the support of veteran Kurdish female peshmerga Hero Ibrahim Ahmed, Amna Suraka was transformed into a museum.

Further reading: April 9: Celebrating 22 Years of Iraq’s Liberation from Saddam Hussein’s Tyranny.

Visiting Amna Suraka

There is a site map. Some of the areas are closed off. The museum is not just about the goings-on at Amna Suraka. It details the fight for freedom for the Kurdish people, including the ​Anfal campaign and those who perished at the ​Nugra Salman prison.
site map of the Amna Suraka Museum in Slemani
buildings at the Amna Suraka Museum with bomb damage
Amna Suraka Red Prison Museum in Slemani
exterior view of the Red Prison Museum in Sulaymaniyah
Guard house at the Amna Suraka complex
exterior view of the Red Prison Museum in Sulaymaniyah
In the Heavy Weaponry Square, you can find tanks, armoured personnel carriers, and anti-aircraft guns.
Heavy Weaponry Square at Amna Suraka in Slemani
Tanks at the Red Prison Museum in Slemani
Red Prison Museum in Slemani
There is also a statue of Saddam Hussein, which was located at the gate of the military base in Kirkuk. It was destroyed by the people of Kirkuk during the Iraqi liberation, but was restored and presented to Amna Sukora.
statue of Saddam Hussein
And compare these two photos. The one on the left shows the countries that manufactured mines found in Kurdistan, and the right shows countries that participated in demining Kurdistan. Do I have to point it out? The flag of which country is represented in BOTH images?
Flags of countries who manufactured landmines found in Kurdistan
Flags of countries who helped demine Kurdistan
Some of the photos and text that follows, may cause distress. Proceed with caution!

Building No.7 - Jails and Torture Section

Here you will see the cells, left as they were found and mock-ups using mannequins of the torture methods used by Saddam's security officers at Amna Suraka:
jail at the Amna Suraka Museum in Slemani
Solitary Cell Number 2:

Many teenage boys were kept here. A medical committee had been set up, whereby the ages of the boys were changed to 18 and thus eligible for execution:
prison cell at the Amna Suraka Museum in Slemani
A message found inscribed on the cell wall in Amna Suraka:
message found inscribed on the cell wall in Amna Suraka
Cage Prison Cell 1:

This cell is where detainees were kept, having already been tortured, before being sent to the revolutionary court to face a sentence of execution. Of course, the cells were packed. Conditions were inhumane to the extreme.
prison cell at the Amna Suraka Museum in Slemani
Torture Room 1:

This is where detainees were tortured, with the accused were beaten at the will of the security officers using electrical cables or hit on the soles of their feet:
mockup of a scene of torture at Amna Suraka
Torture Room 2:

This room was specifically for the hanging detainees, whilst subjecting them to electricity or having heated irons held on their bodies.
mockup of a scene of torture at Amna Suraka

Mirrors Museum

This room was designed to be like a cave, which was where the Peshmerga used to hide. The walls are covered with 182,000 mirrors, symbolising the number of victims in the Kurdistan Region during the Anfal campaign, with 5,000 lamps signifying the number of villages destroyed.
Mirrors Museum at the Amna Suraka Museum

Museum Opening Hours - Amna Suraka

The Amna Suraka Red Prison Museum is open Saturday to Thursday from 9 am to 4 pm, BUT these times are subject to change. I was there at 10 am and told to return at 1 pm. Closed on public holidays and Fridays.

It's free to enter.
Previous Post: Why More Digital Nomads Are Choosing Private Jets for Flexible Travel
Next Post: ​European Microstates

Support me on Ko Fi Coffee button
Donate via PayPal button

​
NOMADIC BACKPACKER
​©2025
  • HOME
  • INDEX
  • About
  • ATM Fees
  • Featured
    • Kurdistan
    • Mexico City
    • Northern Cyprus
    • Tunisia
  • Favourite Countries
  • CONTACT