Sovereign Military Order of Malta – The Country with No Land

The Sovereign Military Order of Malta (not to be confused with the Republic of Malta) is an entity with observer status at the United Nations, maintaining diplomatic relations with 113 countries.

The Sovereign Military Order of Malta is the only UN-recognised country in the world without any land!

So, always up for something beyond mainstream destinations, my backpacking journey took me to Fort St. Angelo and the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. It is one of my 7 Top Places in Malta.

Entrance to the Sovereign Military Order of Malta at Fort St Angelo

Fort St Angelo as viewed from Valletta:

Fort St Angelo and the Sovereign Military Order of Malta as viewed from Valletta

Many call Transnistria, the country that doesn’t exist, but that’s bollocks. I went there. I backpacked it. It exists all right. Just because no one recognises it doesn’t mean to say it doesn’t exist.

But the Sovereign Military Order of Malta is a country without land.

A country without land?

What? Please explain:

This country leases properties.

They lease three properties around the world:

Two in Italy, both in Rome: Palazzo Malta and Villa Malta

And one here in Malta: Fort St Angelo.

Jonny Blair managed to backpack all 3. He also wrote this great article on The Culture Trip, which explains it all much better than I could ever do, so I am happy to refer my readers.

Nomadic Backpacker with the flags of the Republic of Malta and the Sovereign Military Order of Malta

Where is the Sovereign Military Order of Malta?

The Sovereign Military Order of Malta in Malta occupies the top floor of Fort St. Angelo, which is what ultimately brought me to Malta.

I was staying at the Boho Hostel in St. Julians (one of my Happy Places) and with my Canadian buddy, Ryan, who I met at the Andaina Hostel in Oaxaca, back in the Covid era, we went exploring together.

How to get to The Sovereign Military Order of Malta

Well, as I said, this nation within a nation occupies the top floor of the Fort St Angelo:

Fort St Angelo Google Maps screen grab

We travelled by bus from St. Julians to Valletta bus station, which is the central hub for all bus routes in Malta. We both had the Explore Card, which offers unlimited bus travel in Malta and on Gozo Island for 7 days for 25€. A pretty good deal when every single trip would set you back 2.50€:

Tallinja Card travel card in Malta

From Valetta bus station, you can take bus 2 or 4 to Birgu, alighting at Riche, from where it’s a 15-minute walk to Fort St Angelo.
I had booked the tickets the day before on the Heritage Malta Website

Entrance Fees for Fort St Angelo:

These are the entrance fees:

  • Adults (18+): €10.00
  • Youths (12-17): €6.00
  • Senior Citizens (60+): €6.00
  • Concessions & Students: €6.00
  • Children (6-11): €4.00
  • Infants (1-5): Free
  • Heritage Malta Members: FREE
  • Heritage Malta Passport Holders: FREE

And is currently open from 10 am to 6 pm, Monday to Sunday.

Fort St Angelo Heritage Experience sign
illustrated map of Fort St Angelo

So you can explore Fort St Angelo (not included in the blog post) and then go and backpack the top floor, The Sovereign Military Order of Malta.

You need to follow the signs to “Upper Fort St Angelo”:

sign to Upper Fort St Angelo

“Upper Fort St. Angelo is administered by The Sovereign Military Order of Malta for 99 years as agreed with the Maltese Government in 1998. In collaboration with Heritage Malta, this section is accessible as part of the visitor’s experience in the Fort.

The current knight is Fra’ John Dunlap, and it is his private residence, so you just can’t go and expect to get invited in for a cup of tea, not like you could at Buckingham Palace when the Queen was at home. You are limited to exploring the outside area.

Nomadic Backpacker at the entrance to the Sovereign Order of Malta
Sovereign Military order of Malta coat of arms

There is a beautiful garden:

Sovereign Military Order of Malta - Fort St Angelo rooftop garden

With an awesome patio:

Sovereign Military Order of Malta - Fort St Angelo

The ​Statue of Saint Jean Baptiste:

The ​Statue of Saint Jean Baptiste and the flags of Malta and the Sovereign Military Order of Malta

With the 2 flags: the white cross on a red background is the flag of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta, the other being the flag of the Republic of Malta:

Nomadic Backpacker and the flags of Malta and the Sovereign Military Order of Malta

The Chapel of St Anne which dates from the 15th century (and replaces the original Chapel of St Mary):

Sovereign Military Order of Malta, Chapel of St Anne
Nomadic Backpacker at the Sovereign Military Order of Malta
Rooftop at the Sovereign Military Order of Malta
Nomadic Backpacker at Fort St Angelo and the Sovereign Military Order of Malta

Some of the photos didn’t come out so well. As you can see from my constant grimacing, the light is blinding, so apologies.

Leave a comment