Travelling on a cargo boat down the Canal des Pangalanes - Madagascar
July 4 2023
Backpacking in Madagascar, I travel from Tamatave to Manakara by train, bush taxi and 2 days on a cargo boat down the Canal des Pangalanes for some truly adventurous, old-school travel.
Information for the east coast of Madagascar is very lacking, even non-existent to a certain extent, so a little bit of Nomadic Backpacker trail-blazing.
Even the Lonely Planet skipped this part, dismissing it with a "There's nothing to see".
What happened to the spirit of Lonely Planet, discovering the road less travelled? They sold their souls for profit.
Luckily, you can still discover the road less travelled with Nomadic Backpacker. Because there is always something to see.
Even the Lonely Planet skipped this part, dismissing it with a "There's nothing to see".
What happened to the spirit of Lonely Planet, discovering the road less travelled? They sold their souls for profit.
Luckily, you can still discover the road less travelled with Nomadic Backpacker. Because there is always something to see.
Armed with not-very-detailed Google Maps and Maps. I winged it all the way from Tamatave to Manakara, travelling old-school.
This post is like a diary cum travel guide. This is a good description of the Nomadic Backpacker Blog, actually.
One of the few blogs remaining that are not written around ads, giving the traveller and reader top-quality intel without wanting to sell something.
In Tamatave/Toamasina, I stocked up on cash and bought a Madagascar SIM card from Telma, with 4GB of data, ready for the road less travelled. I used Telma because locals told me it was the best deal and had the best coverage.
This post is like a diary cum travel guide. This is a good description of the Nomadic Backpacker Blog, actually.
One of the few blogs remaining that are not written around ads, giving the traveller and reader top-quality intel without wanting to sell something.
In Tamatave/Toamasina, I stocked up on cash and bought a Madagascar SIM card from Telma, with 4GB of data, ready for the road less travelled. I used Telma because locals told me it was the best deal and had the best coverage.
Tamatave to Brickaville by train:
Brickaville:
I stayed at the town's only hotel, the "Capricorne", where there are no frills rooms for 35,000 Ar. There is no restaurant, no Wi-Fi and mostly no power. They don't have a generator for the very frequent power cuts. As I said, no frills. The cockroaches are included. No extra charge for them.
Afraid it's a cold bucket shower job. With the water smelling vaguely of rust, I passed on that.
Not complaining, just reporting exactly how it is. Wouldn't want you guys to think I'm on a busman's holiday.
Had a Soupe-Simple at one small eatery, and a beer at another place where the madame told 3 local youths to shut the fuck up (or get out) and to stop pestering me for me to buy them a round of drinks. Thank God for the strong women here keeping the menfolk in check!
Brickaville has BNI bank and Bank of Africa ATMs.
Afraid it's a cold bucket shower job. With the water smelling vaguely of rust, I passed on that.
Not complaining, just reporting exactly how it is. Wouldn't want you guys to think I'm on a busman's holiday.
Had a Soupe-Simple at one small eatery, and a beer at another place where the madame told 3 local youths to shut the fuck up (or get out) and to stop pestering me for me to buy them a round of drinks. Thank God for the strong women here keeping the menfolk in check!
Brickaville has BNI bank and Bank of Africa ATMs.
Brickaville to Vatomandry:
First, I took a Taxi-Brousse to Antsapanana.
There is a spot opposite the ORANGE phone shop where minibuses stop. Some guys will help you. Just give them something for their help. As I said, I was winging it. Well, perhaps winging it in today's society, but just like travelling in the days pre-Internet, pre-booking everything. On a wing and a prayer. Glad I still have it in me.
Brickaville to Antsapanana 90 mins. 6,000 Ar. For the purpose of this post, 1€ is about 4,500Ar.
The driver took me directly to the Vatomandry Taxi-Brousse to avoid unscrupulous transport touts (his words). I like that they are concerned for my safety here.
My new driver, Oliver, spoke some English, and he looked a little dazed. A nice guy. Liverpool/Chelsea fan (hates Man U and City).
Had to explain how the UK had an Indian Prime Minister. He was a big fan of the Iron Lady.
I rode up front. Great views through the cracked windshield.
Antsapanana to Vatomaandry 2 hours 8,000Ar
At some point, I shared the seat with a lady who spoke pretty ok English. She had lived in Paris many years ago.
Turned out she owned MAEVASOA, a hotel/restaurant on the spit, which is where I ended up for 2 nights.
There is a spot opposite the ORANGE phone shop where minibuses stop. Some guys will help you. Just give them something for their help. As I said, I was winging it. Well, perhaps winging it in today's society, but just like travelling in the days pre-Internet, pre-booking everything. On a wing and a prayer. Glad I still have it in me.
Brickaville to Antsapanana 90 mins. 6,000 Ar. For the purpose of this post, 1€ is about 4,500Ar.
The driver took me directly to the Vatomandry Taxi-Brousse to avoid unscrupulous transport touts (his words). I like that they are concerned for my safety here.
My new driver, Oliver, spoke some English, and he looked a little dazed. A nice guy. Liverpool/Chelsea fan (hates Man U and City).
Had to explain how the UK had an Indian Prime Minister. He was a big fan of the Iron Lady.
I rode up front. Great views through the cracked windshield.
Antsapanana to Vatomaandry 2 hours 8,000Ar
At some point, I shared the seat with a lady who spoke pretty ok English. She had lived in Paris many years ago.
Turned out she owned MAEVASOA, a hotel/restaurant on the spit, which is where I ended up for 2 nights.
We needed to take a little dugout catamaran. She called her boatman.
Never say you are too old. The 2 ladies below are 79 and 62 years young. They need to take this little pirogue just to go to the shop.
Never say you are too old. The 2 ladies below are 79 and 62 years young. They need to take this little pirogue just to go to the shop.
Vatomandry:
I stayed 2 nights because the next day was Independence Day. And nothing much moves!
My host is 79, and her husband is 89. Lovely couple. Lovely staff. 2 cute doggies.
The Malagasy are very friendly people. Great to experience some local hospitality.
So for 60,000 a night (13€), I get a beach hut. Not a flimsy bamboo hut, a sturdy structure with sea breezes and my own bucket shower bathroom.
No Wi-Fi, no mains power, no piped water. Have everything I need. Can recharge my devices via the solar panels.
Well, actually, in reality, the solar was good for nothing. My power bank drained the portable unit in my room, and I didn't even have any juice left to run my room light.
Vatomandry has all the basics. Lots of small shops and hole-in-the-wall eateries.
There is 1 BNI BANK ATM which has a 200,000 Ar withdrawal limit, so a good place to top up.
There is the Le Grand Hotel on the main street. 30,000Ar. Probably another no-frills room.
My host is 79, and her husband is 89. Lovely couple. Lovely staff. 2 cute doggies.
The Malagasy are very friendly people. Great to experience some local hospitality.
So for 60,000 a night (13€), I get a beach hut. Not a flimsy bamboo hut, a sturdy structure with sea breezes and my own bucket shower bathroom.
No Wi-Fi, no mains power, no piped water. Have everything I need. Can recharge my devices via the solar panels.
Well, actually, in reality, the solar was good for nothing. My power bank drained the portable unit in my room, and I didn't even have any juice left to run my room light.
Vatomandry has all the basics. Lots of small shops and hole-in-the-wall eateries.
There is 1 BNI BANK ATM which has a 200,000 Ar withdrawal limit, so a good place to top up.
There is the Le Grand Hotel on the main street. 30,000Ar. Probably another no-frills room.
Sunrise from my beach hut at Maevasoa, Vatomandry:
Backpacking Vatomandry:
Part of the Canal des Pangalanes in Vatomandry:
The Indian Ocean at Vatomandry, Madagascar:
The small bus station in the southern part of town has Taxis-Brousse to Tana, Toamasina (Tamateva) and everywhere in between and also to Mahanoro, 15,000 Ar, which was my next destination.
I had zero recent intel for the next leg.
I was travelling with the philosophy that if there are towns, there will be transport.
Travelling this way has never let me down.
I had zero recent intel for the next leg.
I was travelling with the philosophy that if there are towns, there will be transport.
Travelling this way has never let me down.
Vatomandry to Mahanoro:
I turned up at 7.30 am. I was the first on the list. But here ain't like West Africa, where you wait 6 hours for 6 more passengers. I needed to wait for 17 more, and by 8.50 am we were ready to go.
The road started OK, but then it got crap. It's paved, but there lies the problem. The portholes will slash the tyres if taken too fast. The driver paid attention and nursed the minivan for 84km in just over 5 hours. I kid you not. 50 miles, 5 hours. A perfect average mph.
I feared that if he hit a pothole too fast, slashed tyres were the least of his worries. The whole damn vehicle would collapse.
The doors were hanging off, windows missing, and through the floor, I could see the road beneath me. Dust poured in.
But we made it without incident.
The trip was great. Loved the adventure.
The road started OK, but then it got crap. It's paved, but there lies the problem. The portholes will slash the tyres if taken too fast. The driver paid attention and nursed the minivan for 84km in just over 5 hours. I kid you not. 50 miles, 5 hours. A perfect average mph.
I feared that if he hit a pothole too fast, slashed tyres were the least of his worries. The whole damn vehicle would collapse.
The doors were hanging off, windows missing, and through the floor, I could see the road beneath me. Dust poured in.
But we made it without incident.
The trip was great. Loved the adventure.
Typical road in Madagascar. Progress is always slow. Don't expect to average more than 30 kph. The moral of the story is to start early, make full use of the daylight, and make short stages. 100-150km days are just about right.
Mahanoro:
Arriving in Mahanoro. I had no idea where I would stay.
I let the cycle rickshaw take me to where he saw fit.
It saved me from searching fruitlessly.
We stopped at the Hotel Mon Desir.
It looked perfect. Modern.
The guy showed me the room.
'Nice' summed it up a treat.
I paid and thanked my cycle taxi guy.
It was a perfect little oasis. In fact, it was the best-kept town in Madagascar yet.
The big attraction was the free Wi-Fi and 24-hour power.
Solar is all well and good, but in Vatomandry, it didn't even have enough ummpf to recharge my LED head torch.
I let the cycle rickshaw take me to where he saw fit.
It saved me from searching fruitlessly.
We stopped at the Hotel Mon Desir.
It looked perfect. Modern.
The guy showed me the room.
'Nice' summed it up a treat.
I paid and thanked my cycle taxi guy.
It was a perfect little oasis. In fact, it was the best-kept town in Madagascar yet.
The big attraction was the free Wi-Fi and 24-hour power.
Solar is all well and good, but in Vatomandry, it didn't even have enough ummpf to recharge my LED head torch.
I made sure that my Anker Power Bank was always topped up.
I immediately asked about my onward options.
Confirming what I already suspected:
"Il n'y a pas des Taxis-Brousse pour aller a Mananjary?", "Non!"
There is a road going south. Google Maps shows the road but there are many river crossings and there are no vehicle barges to take vehicles across. So there are no Taxis-Brousse.
The only way forward was to take a cargo boat down the Canal des Pangalanes
Built in stages over the years, and massively expanded by the French, le Canal des Pangalanes stretches for about 650km, down the east coast. It was built to allow a safe passage for cargo boats to Madagascar's biggest port in Toamasina, circumventing the treacherous Indian Ocean.
Most it has been left to silt up, barges left rotting, except on the section between Mahanoro and Mananjary. And this was the section I was planning to travel down.
The guy at the Hotel Mon Desir seemed to think that there was a cargo boat that left daily for Mananjary. This tied in with what the friend of the lady in Vatomandry had said. Though wasn't quite correct.
I hot-footed it over to the boat dock on a river that ain't even on Google Maps, yay for MapsMe.
Confirming what I already suspected:
"Il n'y a pas des Taxis-Brousse pour aller a Mananjary?", "Non!"
There is a road going south. Google Maps shows the road but there are many river crossings and there are no vehicle barges to take vehicles across. So there are no Taxis-Brousse.
The only way forward was to take a cargo boat down the Canal des Pangalanes
Built in stages over the years, and massively expanded by the French, le Canal des Pangalanes stretches for about 650km, down the east coast. It was built to allow a safe passage for cargo boats to Madagascar's biggest port in Toamasina, circumventing the treacherous Indian Ocean.
Most it has been left to silt up, barges left rotting, except on the section between Mahanoro and Mananjary. And this was the section I was planning to travel down.
The guy at the Hotel Mon Desir seemed to think that there was a cargo boat that left daily for Mananjary. This tied in with what the friend of the lady in Vatomandry had said. Though wasn't quite correct.
I hot-footed it over to the boat dock on a river that ain't even on Google Maps, yay for MapsMe.
"Hotel Mon Desir". This is what 50,000 Ar gets you:
The restaurant across the street served up some great food:
Mahanoro to Nosy Varika - Cargo Boat on the Canal des Pangalanes:
I headed for the small office and asked about my options.
There was a cargo boat leaving at 8 am to Nosy Varika, where I could spend the night before continuing the next day. This was music to my ears. I was ecstatic.
Though in reality, we didn't leave until 10 am.
The cargo boat did the job. It ferried rice, beer and everything you could think of, downriver together with a few locals plus the odd itinerant backpacker.
Actually, on that front, the only foreigners I have seen in Madagascar have been French expats in Tana and Tamatave.
Where are all the backpackers?
The cargo boat, though quite adequate, was a long trip. I was told we should arrive just after 6 pm. Of course, this was complete shite.
I arrived in Nosy Varika at 1 am. After 15 hours.
Even without the stops, and there were a few but not that many, there are long stretches with nothing; the journey would have been 12 hours minimum. And of course, we didn't leave until 10 am.
And this meant navigating 7 hours down the Canal in the dark.
Truly a tough way to travel. The limits of my Comfort Zone were being stretched in a way they haven't for a good few years.
If you want some off-the-grid travels, you can certainly find them in Madagascar.
There was a cargo boat leaving at 8 am to Nosy Varika, where I could spend the night before continuing the next day. This was music to my ears. I was ecstatic.
Though in reality, we didn't leave until 10 am.
The cargo boat did the job. It ferried rice, beer and everything you could think of, downriver together with a few locals plus the odd itinerant backpacker.
Actually, on that front, the only foreigners I have seen in Madagascar have been French expats in Tana and Tamatave.
Where are all the backpackers?
The cargo boat, though quite adequate, was a long trip. I was told we should arrive just after 6 pm. Of course, this was complete shite.
I arrived in Nosy Varika at 1 am. After 15 hours.
Even without the stops, and there were a few but not that many, there are long stretches with nothing; the journey would have been 12 hours minimum. And of course, we didn't leave until 10 am.
And this meant navigating 7 hours down the Canal in the dark.
Truly a tough way to travel. The limits of my Comfort Zone were being stretched in a way they haven't for a good few years.
If you want some off-the-grid travels, you can certainly find them in Madagascar.
The boat dock, just a muddy river bank with the cargo boat that will take me down the Canal des Pangalanes from Mahanoro to Nosy Varika:
It's a tough trip. No luxuries here. The best way to handle it is with a smile, like the locals. Never saw them complaining:
Dropping off and picking up passengers on the Canal des Pangalanes. These villages are not connected by road.
Nosy Varika:
A fixer at the boat dock led me at 1 am to the hotel, and after a lot of banging and shouting, we roused the owner, and I was shown a room.
And as I drink a coffee the next morning, the hardships of the journey slowly fade. Ain't it always like that? A nightmare at the time, later you'll be telling this tale to your mates down the pub.
I was staying at the Hotel Volazara.
30,000 Ar got me a more than adequate room with my own bathroom and electricity.
There is another hotel here, the Petite Oasis. It's nearer to the dock. Rooms are also 30,000 Ar.
I stopped there for a big noodle soup.
Friendly owners. The guy speaks a little English.
I added it to Google Maps.
There are no banks/ATMs in town. Plenty of places to get a coffee, noodles, or beer, might not always be cold, though.
And as I drink a coffee the next morning, the hardships of the journey slowly fade. Ain't it always like that? A nightmare at the time, later you'll be telling this tale to your mates down the pub.
I was staying at the Hotel Volazara.
30,000 Ar got me a more than adequate room with my own bathroom and electricity.
There is another hotel here, the Petite Oasis. It's nearer to the dock. Rooms are also 30,000 Ar.
I stopped there for a big noodle soup.
Friendly owners. The guy speaks a little English.
I added it to Google Maps.
There are no banks/ATMs in town. Plenty of places to get a coffee, noodles, or beer, might not always be cold, though.
Nosy Varika to Mananjary - Cargo Boat on the Canal des Pangalanes:
After two nights in Nosy Varika, I continued down the Canal des Pangalanes.
The Poseidon Trans JoJo to Mananjary was leaving at 6 am:
The Poseidon Trans JoJo to Mananjary was leaving at 6 am:
We left at 7 am. Nosy Varika is a midpoint on the Canal des Pangalanes, so the boat was carrying much less cargo. Manajary is connected by road, so most of the cargo is going the other way.
The waterways system is straighter than the day before. Progress was better. 14 kph.
You can pay good money to be a tourist and do a tour of the Pangalanes, stopping off at 'authentic' villages to eat 'authentic' meals.
This is the real deal. Travel on a cargo boat like the locals do. Eating whatever is offered at the tiny villages en route.
Arrived at 4 pm. So 9 hours for the trip. 15,000 Ar.
The waterways system is straighter than the day before. Progress was better. 14 kph.
You can pay good money to be a tourist and do a tour of the Pangalanes, stopping off at 'authentic' villages to eat 'authentic' meals.
This is the real deal. Travel on a cargo boat like the locals do. Eating whatever is offered at the tiny villages en route.
Arrived at 4 pm. So 9 hours for the trip. 15,000 Ar.
The road less travelled is no place to be picky:
Mananjary:
From the dock, I walked looking for a hotel. Ended up at Safara, where the cheapest room is 67,500 Ar.
There was good Wi-Fi in the restaurant. The power went off around 10 pm. But worked during the day.
The beds were good. It was quiet. There was hot water and buckets to do my laundry.
I decided to stay a 2nd night to recover.
In town, lots of small eateries. Just choose the busiest! And a small bar I found, The Rubus Bar and later, the La Rondelle, a popular joint for locals with cash.
Good music on the sound system for once.
There are 3 ATMs in town. The BNI BANK with its free cash withdrawals, and the Société Generale and Bank of Africa
I added lots of things to Google Maps.
There ain't much here in town. Most of the buildings were wiped out in a cyclone a few years ago. Buildings stand roofless, abandoned.
It's ok for a night or 2, just to recover, before the last stage on the east coast.
There was good Wi-Fi in the restaurant. The power went off around 10 pm. But worked during the day.
The beds were good. It was quiet. There was hot water and buckets to do my laundry.
I decided to stay a 2nd night to recover.
In town, lots of small eateries. Just choose the busiest! And a small bar I found, The Rubus Bar and later, the La Rondelle, a popular joint for locals with cash.
Good music on the sound system for once.
There are 3 ATMs in town. The BNI BANK with its free cash withdrawals, and the Société Generale and Bank of Africa
I added lots of things to Google Maps.
There ain't much here in town. Most of the buildings were wiped out in a cyclone a few years ago. Buildings stand roofless, abandoned.
It's ok for a night or 2, just to recover, before the last stage on the east coast.
Enjoying my first Beaufort beer at the La Rondelle beach bar:
Old church in Mananjary:
Mananjary to Manakara:
Got to the Taxis-Brousse parking lot where I took a coffee and a baguette, a 'Breakfast for Legionnaires'. Then a combi-van turned up. The girl at the café was quick to help me.
"Monsieur, pour aller a Manakara".
Love how they help. Someone grabbed my bag and put it on the roof. Then we drove around town picking up a few more people.
It's super basic here, but I love how it all functions.
They have a system. It may seem chaotic, but it functions. Travel here is tough, but much easier and more enjoyable than in West Africa.
Not much to report about the journey. We made the 163 km in just over 6 hours.
I walked into town.
"Monsieur, pour aller a Manakara".
Love how they help. Someone grabbed my bag and put it on the roof. Then we drove around town picking up a few more people.
It's super basic here, but I love how it all functions.
They have a system. It may seem chaotic, but it functions. Travel here is tough, but much easier and more enjoyable than in West Africa.
Not much to report about the journey. We made the 163 km in just over 6 hours.
I walked into town.
Manakara:
And finally, after 9 days of adventurous travels, I arrive in Manakara.
Manakara, the end of the East Coast Adventure down the road less travelled.
Manakara the end of the now-disused railway line from Fianarantsoa.
The downtown is a dusty/sandy, very unglamorous place with not 1 ounce of charm, but head over to Manakara Be, the beach area. There are a few little shacks to get a beer.
And instead of bailing out after just 1 night, I hung around for a few days. It kinda grew on me.
I had a quiet room, had fast Wi-Fi and it was cheap at just 38,000 Ar, just 8€ a night.
Manakara, the end of the East Coast Adventure down the road less travelled.
Manakara the end of the now-disused railway line from Fianarantsoa.
The downtown is a dusty/sandy, very unglamorous place with not 1 ounce of charm, but head over to Manakara Be, the beach area. There are a few little shacks to get a beer.
And instead of bailing out after just 1 night, I hung around for a few days. It kinda grew on me.
I had a quiet room, had fast Wi-Fi and it was cheap at just 38,000 Ar, just 8€ a night.
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