Travelling by train in Madagascar from Toamasina (Tamatave) to Brickaville
Passenger trains have been reintroduced between Moramanga and Toamasina (or Tamatave) in Madagascar. I ride the weekly Madarail ‘Dia Tsara’ Train from Toamasina to Brickaville.
Since June 1st 2023, there has now a weekly train operating between Moramanga and Toamasina. It leaves Moramanga on Thursdays and returns on Saturdays. It is said to take 12 hours, which is amazingly slow for such a short distance.
After backpacking Antananarivo, I headed to Toamasina intending to take the train south to Brickaville. It was a good opportunity to be one of the first travellers, backpackers and travel bloggers to do this. Get in there! Though this should be the 4th running of the service, how many backpackers and potential bloggers have I seen in Toamasina in the week I have been here? Exactly none.
Many African countries had functioning rail networks, but most have fallen into disrepair. I once rode the Nairobi Mombasa train, the Dar es Salam to Mbeya train and the Cairo to Luxor train. I never rode the train in Morocco or South Africa.
In Zimbabwe, the Vic Falls train had been discontinued, as was the Dakar to Bamako train. And I had just missed the weekly train in Mozambique once, which would have been a mental adventure.
Travelling by train is one of the best ways to see a country. Quite often, as is the case here, the railway line follows a route away from the highway.
Toamasina/Tamatave
This is the former station in Toamasina. La Gare des Manguiers:
At the La Brasserie de la Gare:
Drinking a THB, one of the most popular beers in Madagascar:
And now, in 2023, the trains arrive and depart from a semi-derelict siding behind the station:
Sneaky photo inside the railway yard at Toamasina:
The railway track through town:
I stayed 5 nights at the JRJ HOTEL in Toamasina. This is Africa; the best deals aren’t online. Thanks to my buddy Paul for the recommendation. In 2023, a massive room with a double bed, private bathroom, TV, AirCon, hot water shower, fast Wi-Fi, friendly staff, and super clean, for just 55,000 Ar, that’s 12.20 USD or 11.15€. Perfect for the budget traveller who can no longer cope with shitty hotels.
Buying Tickets for the Train from Toamasina to Brickaville
Yes, this is Africa, nothing is as simple as it could be, though that is part of the adventure. If you want straightforward and logic, developing Africa is not the place for you. Though perhaps it is logical. Just in a different way than what we are accustomed to.
You need to ask, then ask again and perhaps ask again.
I went searching for information about the train and how/where to buy the ticket on the Tuesday before the Saturday departure. After a fashion, behind a big sliding gate, I found a Madarail security guard who informed me that since the train arrives on Thursday evenings, and I could buy my ticket on Friday between 8 am and 1 pm. Bear in mind that everything is done in French so things take me a bit longer.
He had a photocopy of this in his hand:
Entrance to the station is via this sliding gate:
So I returned on the Friday morning.
There was already a throng of people behind the ticket window:
It’s slow going. The trouble is, each person is buying multiple tickets.
One girl writes your name on a ticket, another writes your id and name in another book (take your passport).
There was no 1st class available.
Happy to get my 2nd class ticket, Toamasina to Brickaville, 7,000 Ar:
Toamasina to Brickaville
I was up bright and early. I took a cycle rickshaw to the station. People were already getting on. It’s a bit of a scramble to get a seat.
It was still dark, so no pre-departure photos, but the 06:00 train pulled out at 05:55.
The track is in 1m gauge, almost like a narrow gauge. Progress is slow.
The train is a lifeline for the people who live in villages along the way. The track does not follow the road; it follows the coast, whereas the road is quite inland.
Twice a week, the train passes, once in each direction. It gives the locals a chance to sell things to the passengers at each station halt.
Tamatave to Brickaville is just 100km, but it took 4 hours and 20. A pretty good average, 22 kph. No one seems to care if we are late or not.
Arrival in Brickaville:
Chinese-built maintenance train later the same day in Brickaville:
I take a room at The Hotel Capricorne, the only hotel in Brickaville:
Follow the journey south as I travel down the east coast of Madagascar for some of my most adventurous travels in years, including 2 days on the Canal des Pangalanes.