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Backpacking in Durres - The Oldest City in Albania

Posted: August 15 2020 | Tagged: The Balkans

From Tirana, I headed to Durres, a port city on the Adriatic and the 2nd largest city in Albania. Founded by the Greeks and known as Epidamnos, it is believed to be the oldest city in Albania.
Venetian Tower in durres albania
Though I hadn't gone to Durres specifically for the Roman ruins, the Venetian Tower, pictured above, is pretty neat.

​Life has changed due to COVID-19. I have to be somewhere, and it was nice to have things to do, such as planning Albania tour packages, and I found Durres an agreeable place to base myself.

Things Worth Seeing in Durres, Albania's Oldest City

Roman Amphitheatre:

Remains of the 20,000-seat 2nd-century Roman Amphitheatre built by Emperor Trajan:
Roman Amphitheatre in Durres Albania

The Durres Mosque:

Mosque in Durres Albania

The Bank of Albania:

Bank of Albania, built in 1925, designed by Italian architects and the Baroque style was used for the first time in Albania. The sculpture represents the struggles, the victories and the prosperity of Albania:
Bank of Albania in Durres Albania

The Byzantine Market:

The Byzantine Market in Durres Albania

Roman Baths:

These Roman baths were 'found' under this modern building. Makes you wonder how and why they just built on top of them:
The Roman baths in Durres Albania

Venetian Tower - Kulla Veneciane:

Venetian Tower - Kulla Veneciane in Durres Albania

Lookout point:

Above the town is a lookout point: Kulla e Rojes Kalaja for great late afternoon views:
view of the port in Durres Albania
Newly weds like to come up here to have pictures taken. Kinda weird idea with the port as a backdrop.
scenic view in Durres Albania
Durres

Vila e Ahmet Zogut:

This villa was King Zog's summer house. He was the founder of the modern Albanian state and the first King of Albania. Sadly, the villa is off limits. Like many historical buildings in Albania, they are deciding what to do with it.
Vila e Zogut in Durres

Durres Lighthouse:

Durres lighthouse
From the Venetian Tower you can stroll with the locals along the Vollga Promenda and up the Rruga Currila. Lots of little beaches, packed with locals and numerous cafes and bars.

The best beaches in Durres are East and South of town in the direction of the Southern bus station. But of course I didn't get to them.

On August 14 there was 'Retro Albania'. An 'Old Timers' vehicle event. There were about 20 classic cars set up in the main square in front of the hostel, @retroalbania :
Retro Albania
Retro Albania
Retro Albania
Retro Albania

Where to stay in Durres:

I stayed at Hostel Durres, just a 10-minute walk from the bus station when coming from Tirana:
Dorm room price with breakfast in @2020 was 1100 LEK. I wrote a full review of My Stay at Hostel Durres. A big, airy hostel, a place to get some work done:
Backpacking in Durres Albania

Durres: Getting there and away:

The Main Bus station is in town and serves the following destinations: Berat, Kavaje, Korca, Lezhe, Lunshnje, Peshkopi, Pogradec, Shkodra and Tirana. The fare from Tirana was 130LEK, journey time about 1 hour.
For destinations in the south of Albania, Gjirokaster, Himare, Vlore and Saranda, you need to get to the Southern Bus Station:
The train station is next to the main bus station. The service is not comprehensive. Since the earthquakes in 2019, services to Shkodra have been withdrawn. Now the options are Elbasan and Kashar (Tirana). Trains use the Tirana - Kashar station which is 7.5km from Skanderbeg Square.
Backpacking in Durres Albania
Here is the Tirana Durres timetable, @ August 2020, fare is 70LEK:
​
Durres to Kashar (Tirana)
dept 07:05 arr 07:47
​dept 17:00 arrive 17:43
Kashar (Tirana) to Durres
dept 07:20 arr 08:04
depart 08:30 arr 09:13

​Here is the 5pm train to Tirana (Kashar):
Train at Durres station
Check out the plaque on the engine:
Plaque on an engine from Czechoslovakia
Backpacking in Durres Albania
At the time of writing I have not taken the train but hope to when I return to Tirana and pick up my sleeping bag and a few other bits I left there. Bus connections from Durres are comprehensive enough and will only go back to Tirana to take a connection to North Macedonia. Durres makes a great base!
​
Previous Post: ​Travelling Lamu to Mtwapa
Next Post: ​Review of Hostel Durres

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