Sanliurfa, or just Urfa as it is commonly known, is far off the tourist trail. It is a multiethnic city with a Turkish, Kurdish and Arab population, 54 km north of the Syrian border at Akçakale, and at best 1,280 km from Istanbul.
It’s probably my favourite city in Turkey.
I first visited Sanliurfa on my way to Syria, back in 2010. I only stayed one night.
Back then, I wasn’t blogging, I didn’t even get any photos as my memory card got corrupted, and photos from the Sumela Monastery outside of Trabzon, Van, Diyarbakir, the border crossing to Syria, Raqqa, Aleppo and Palmyra were lost to the dogs.
This post and all the photos are from my second visit in 2020, which was the last place I stayed in before flying to Mexico.
My 3rd visit was in 2025, staying for a few nights as I made my way overland to Kurdistan.
I had arrived on a 9-hour night bus from Nevşehir. I had waited in the bus terminal until 7:30 and then walked into town. More details in the getting there and away section, a bit further down.
Şanlıurfa is a ‘truly ancient city’ – Wikipedia – and dates back to 9000 BC if you can imagine such a time. It is also said to be the hometown of the Prophet Abraham.
There is a lot of stuff to see here:
Things to do in Sanliurfa
1. Deyr Yayub Monastery:
On a hill just south of town. Well recommended for a visit. It’s about 7km from town. Walk south on the main street and hang a right on Sokak 3622 and keep on walking. I suggested an edit for Google Maps, which they declined!
So after the housing blocks end, follow the dirt track. Keep high. You’ll zig-zag round to the left, a bit, then continue on before curving off to the right. You can see the ruins for the most part on the walk in, so you’ll know the direction you have to go. The ruins are the tiny little blip on the far right side of the image below, on the skyline.
2. Şanlıurfa Museum and Mosaic Museum:
A short walk from town, opposite the Piazza Mall (Good for a McD, BK or MediaMarkt – I bought a spare micro SD card), the Şanlıurfa Museum. The ticket is 10€ (price as of 2025 from the official website) and includes entry to the Mosaic Museum, which really should not be missed.
The Şanlıurfa Museum is an Archaeological Museum and covers everything from the Palaeolithic Age to the present day:
3. Balıklıgöl or Fish Lake:
Prophet Abraham lived around 2000 BC. He rejected the claim that Nimrod, the ruler of Urfa was God. Abraham destroyed the statues worshipped by the inhabitants of Urfa. As mentioned in the Quran 21:68, “Burn him and support your Gods – if you are to act.
A great fire was lit in the place where the lake is now. Abraham was thrown into the fire from the mountain above the lake. The fire cooled under the order of Allah: “Oh fire, be coolness and safety upon Abraham.” (Quran 21:69).
According to tradition, the place of the fire was turned into water, and the glowing embers into fish. The current lake formed where Abraham fell. Source: info plaque.
4. Mevlid-i-Halil Cave:
“Mevlid” means ‘birthplace of the Prophet’. It is believed that Abraham was born here. When Nimrod was informed one of his children would wipe out his religion and demolish his kingdom, he order all his children be killed. Nuna, pregnant with Abraham, dared not tell the King of her being pregnant and hid in the cave. Abraham was born in the cave, which is inside the mosque. Nuna went every day in secrecy to suckle him, and it is believed that on the order of Allah, a gazelle also went to suckle him. Abraham lived in the cave until he was 14. Source: info plaque.
The Mevlid-i-Halil Cave is in the same complex as the Mevlid-i-Halil Cami
5. Ayn – Zeliha Lake:
Zeliha, the King’s daughter, seeing the miracle in which Prophet Abraham was rescued from fire, accepted the invitation to Islam and rejected the claim that her father was God before him. Nimrod reacted with anger and threw his daughter into a fire. Nimrod watched his daughters burning and death with indifference. A lake formed in the place where Zeliha fell, and fish appeared in the lake. The place is called “The Tears of Zeliha”. Source: info plaque.
6. Germuş Kilisesi:
I also made the rather longish hike out to Germuş Kilisesi. 10km away. 19th Century, semi-derelict church.
Because of the weekend Covid curfew not ending until 10 am, I set out rather later than I wanted. But it was a beautiful day. It gets dark at 6 pm. I had 8 hours to play with.
When I arrived at the church, a shepherd and grandson (?) were tending about 50 sheep and a couple of goats. They were making a brew on a small fire, and as is the norm here with the wonderful Kurdish people, I was invited. I declined the offer to eat, though. Sitting in the sun, keeping distance, no need for words. Just lots of smiles!
There are 2 sites out of town that are probably worth a visit: Göbeklitepe and Sit Alanı. I am quite exhausted, so maybe in another lifetime I’ll get to these.
Other stuff around town:
Where to Stay In Sanliurfa:
If you are looking for a cheap place to stay in Sanliurfa, look no further than Hotel Ugar. This ultra-basic but very clean hotel had been running for years. Mustafa, the owner, is always up for a chat. He has travelled himself.
I stayed here way back in 2010, and during the pandemic in 2020 and again in 2025, before heading to Kurdistan.
The beauty of this place is that it’s perfect for old school travellers, because you won’t find it on any booking site. You just turn up and get yourself a bed.
Single room, shared bathroom facilities: 500 TL (May 2025).
Getting there and away
Sanliurfa Otogar (bus station)
The Sanliurfa Otogar (bus station), as per Google Maps and MapsMe, is about a 4 km walk from the centre:
Sanliurfa Airport
The Havas Airport Shuttle Bus leaves from near the big intersection across from the Nevali Hotel at the Havas GAP Airport Shuttle stop.
There aren’t many flights out of Şanlıurfa, so the Havaş Airport Shuttle Bus runs to connect with the flights as and when.
This is the schedule as of 2025:
