How to get from Tanzania to Zambia at Nakonde
Posted: August 26 2023 | Tagged: Tanzania, Zambia, Border Crossings
Follow the journey on an 8-country African Road Trip as I cross the Nakonde Border from Tanzania to Zambia.
A little bit of trainspotting in Mpanda, there wasn't much else to see, just an overnight stop on the way to somewhere else.
467km to Tunduma. It was always going to be a long day.
I had a bus ticket from Mpanda to Mbeya in my pocket.
The plan was to get off at Tunduma, the border town to Zambia, my 104th UN Member State, plus 7 others that I personally recognise.
But if we were running late, I'd continue to Mbeya and then go back to the border the next day.
It was another 6 am bus, which meant getting up at 5 am, packing up and getting to the bus terminal without my morning coffee.
But we departed on time. The first 40 minutes were paved, and then the road switched to piste. Hard-packed, dusty, bumpy, but no potholes.
We lost 20 minutes to a blowout:
The plan was to get off at Tunduma, the border town to Zambia, my 104th UN Member State, plus 7 others that I personally recognise.
But if we were running late, I'd continue to Mbeya and then go back to the border the next day.
It was another 6 am bus, which meant getting up at 5 am, packing up and getting to the bus terminal without my morning coffee.
But we departed on time. The first 40 minutes were paved, and then the road switched to piste. Hard-packed, dusty, bumpy, but no potholes.
We lost 20 minutes to a blowout:
The piste lasted about 90 minutes. We stopped a few times for the bush toilet.
It got hotter. I was overheating, but the locals sat in winter sweaters. The windows were closed. Either they were actually cold with the 34 deg C or they had some aversion to drafts.
We reached Tunduma at 2 pm after 8 hours, so I decided to get off here and cross the border then and now.
The bus station that's on Google Maps, 3km from town, isn't used anymore.
We turned left, bypassing the queue of trucks, and then hit the main road again and turned left, in the direction of Mbeya.
They wouldn't let me off, despite my venting my frustration.
We continued 10 more kilometres to the new bus station. WTF. Yes. Senseless African planning again. Or maybe not. In 10 years, the bus station will be on the edge of town instead of being in a satellite town miles away.
It cost me 4 USD to get a motorbike taxi back to the border.
Am sure the taxi mafia came up with the idea to build the bus station miles away.
The border is a shambles.
They have a one-stop border here, financed by UKAID, with the Exit Tanzania Entry Zambia immigration desks in one room.
They queue African style. All huddled around the desk, thinking they would get served quicker.
I am the only Mzungu. The only one waiting patiently.
I am processed quickly.
By the time I got to the actual border, it was 3:30 pm.
It got hotter. I was overheating, but the locals sat in winter sweaters. The windows were closed. Either they were actually cold with the 34 deg C or they had some aversion to drafts.
We reached Tunduma at 2 pm after 8 hours, so I decided to get off here and cross the border then and now.
The bus station that's on Google Maps, 3km from town, isn't used anymore.
We turned left, bypassing the queue of trucks, and then hit the main road again and turned left, in the direction of Mbeya.
They wouldn't let me off, despite my venting my frustration.
We continued 10 more kilometres to the new bus station. WTF. Yes. Senseless African planning again. Or maybe not. In 10 years, the bus station will be on the edge of town instead of being in a satellite town miles away.
It cost me 4 USD to get a motorbike taxi back to the border.
Am sure the taxi mafia came up with the idea to build the bus station miles away.
The border is a shambles.
They have a one-stop border here, financed by UKAID, with the Exit Tanzania Entry Zambia immigration desks in one room.
They queue African style. All huddled around the desk, thinking they would get served quicker.
I am the only Mzungu. The only one waiting patiently.
I am processed quickly.
By the time I got to the actual border, it was 3:30 pm.
The Nakonde Border is one of only two border crossings between Tanzania and Zambia. The other is the Kasesya / Zombe Border Post, sometimes called Mbala, 25 km inside Zambia. This would be a little more adventurous. Google Maps doesn't show much in the way of guest houses at the two towns on either side of the border.
Do you need a visa to visit Zambia?
As of 1 November 2022, visa requirements were waived for tourists holding certain passports from 83 countries. With 30 days given at land borders. Getting a visa extention is painless. It's free and you can stay in Zambia for up 90 day within a 12-month period.
A further 62 nationalities can get a visa on arrival.
Check the official government websites before you go as things can and do change.
A further 62 nationalities can get a visa on arrival.
Check the official government websites before you go as things can and do change.
Tanzania Exit stamp:
Zambia Entry stamp:
And out into the chaos of the Zambian border town of Nakonde.
The border took 45 minutes, and with the 1-hour time change, it's 3:15 again.
Nakonde is a dusty hellhole. Take my advice. Get the fuck out if you can, without spending a night but distances are super long in Zambia. The next big town is Mpika, 370 km away.
There were cars available to whisk me the 1000km to Lusaka if needed, but I had already come 440km that day. I needed to sleep. But finding a hotel wasn't easy. I ended up at the Fresh Air Lodge, quite a ways out of town, but the Zwangendaba Lodge would have been ok.
The border took 45 minutes, and with the 1-hour time change, it's 3:15 again.
Nakonde is a dusty hellhole. Take my advice. Get the fuck out if you can, without spending a night but distances are super long in Zambia. The next big town is Mpika, 370 km away.
There were cars available to whisk me the 1000km to Lusaka if needed, but I had already come 440km that day. I needed to sleep. But finding a hotel wasn't easy. I ended up at the Fresh Air Lodge, quite a ways out of town, but the Zwangendaba Lodge would have been ok.
Changing Money:
You can easily change money on both sides of the border.
I changed my leftover Tanzania Shillings and 20€ for Zambian Kwacha before crossing.
There are 3 banks in Nakonde. ABSA, ATLASMARA and ZANACO. My advice is to carry cash just in case, preferably US Dollars!
I changed my leftover Tanzania Shillings and 20€ for Zambian Kwacha before crossing.
There are 3 banks in Nakonde. ABSA, ATLASMARA and ZANACO. My advice is to carry cash just in case, preferably US Dollars!
Best Sim Card for Travellers in Zambia
The girls at the lodge in Nakonde recommended Airtel as the best internet network in Zambia.
I bought myself a Zambia sim card from the Airtel office in town.
The sim cost 10Kw and 5GB cost 60Kw and is valid for 1 month.
I bought myself a Zambia sim card from the Airtel office in town.
The sim cost 10Kw and 5GB cost 60Kw and is valid for 1 month.
I cashed some Euros at the ABSA bank.
