Backpacking in the Republic of Iraq - Kurdistan Region
This is a new idea, on my index page for Kurdistan, I will give you some background information, travel tips for the region in general. Blog posts - listed below - contain a more in-depth write-up.
I spent 17 days backpacking in Kurdistan, overnighting in 5 towns and cities, with some day trips to smaller places.
Iraqi Kurdistan is an autonomous region in northern Iraq. Officially, it's part of Iraq. When the new Iraqi Federal State was founded in 2005, Kurdistan was declared a Federal Region. So it's Iraq and Kurdistan. However, when you are there, it's best to refer to it as Kurdistan. They have their own language, they use the Iraqi Dinar and have their own Regional Government.
I entered Kurdistan at the Ibrahim Khalil Border Crossing from Turkey and flew out of Erbil International Airport to the UK via Athens on Aegean Lines.
I spent 17 days backpacking in Kurdistan, overnighting in 5 towns and cities, with some day trips to smaller places.
Iraqi Kurdistan is an autonomous region in northern Iraq. Officially, it's part of Iraq. When the new Iraqi Federal State was founded in 2005, Kurdistan was declared a Federal Region. So it's Iraq and Kurdistan. However, when you are there, it's best to refer to it as Kurdistan. They have their own language, they use the Iraqi Dinar and have their own Regional Government.
I entered Kurdistan at the Ibrahim Khalil Border Crossing from Turkey and flew out of Erbil International Airport to the UK via Athens on Aegean Lines.
Is it worth visiting Kurdistan?
I am writing this up on my last days in Erbil, and for me, as a backpacker, the Iraqi Region of Kurdistan is in my top 10, out of 130 countries and territories visited. So, yeah, Kurdistan is 100 % worth it.
It would take a lot to get into my top 3, which details Sudan, Syria and Pakistan, but yes, in the top 10 without a doubt, alongside Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kenya, Morocco, El Salvador and Malaysia.
Be prepared to get blown away by the hospitality.
Many people speak English, more of course in Erbil and Duhok. Many speak German too.
It would take a lot to get into my top 3, which details Sudan, Syria and Pakistan, but yes, in the top 10 without a doubt, alongside Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kenya, Morocco, El Salvador and Malaysia.
Be prepared to get blown away by the hospitality.
Many people speak English, more of course in Erbil and Duhok. Many speak German too.
Is it safe to travel in Kurdistan?
Quick answer: YES. Much safer on an everyday basis than most towns and cities in Europe, the Americas and Africa. When travelling around Kurdistan, there are lots of police and military checkpoints. These are just a formality, so always carry your passport with you.
Warning:
Make sure you check before you make arrangements to travel to Kurdistan: Closure of Iraqi airspace to civilian aviation.
When is the best time to visit Kurdistan?
I was there for the first 3 weeks of May, and to be honest, the weather was already getting too hot for comfort (37 deg C). According to Wikipedia, the region has extremely hot summers, regularly reaching 40 degrees C plus, with a very low humidity (15%). Winters are damp (70% humidity), with January being the wettest month. Temperatures from November to March are listed as being comfortable.
Travel tips before you go to Kurdistan
If you have been reading my stories, you will know that I don't mince my words and hate it when influencers make false and misleading statements.
These are my 2 best 'before you go' travel tips for Kurdistan:
These are my 2 best 'before you go' travel tips for Kurdistan:
Apply for an eVisa
If you are thinking of travelling to Kurdistan, I recommend applying for an e-visa before you go. The process takes just a few minutes. There are no complicated questions. The visa is valid for 90 days, and you get 30 days on entry. The e-visa costs 100,000 IQD, which is 76 USD, £57 or 68€, plus a 3,500 IQD service fee. The official website says that the e-visa is still available on arrival BUT, I crossed into Kurdistan at the Ibrahim Khalil border, from Turkey and there was no VOA office, nor were there any money changers (apparently, you need to pay in IQD), so, save your self some possible hassle and get it before you go. Is the Visa on Arrival still available at the airport? The only reliable intel I have is from December 2023.
Take US Dollars or Euros
Cash in King in Kurdistan. I have seen other travel blogs stating that ATMs can be found EVERYWHERE in Erbil, Duhok and Slemani. I find this totally misleading. They are NOT everywhere. They are mostly found in shopping malls. Yes, there are a few dotted around, but you have to go out of your way to find one. I used the RT Bank ATM in Slemani, with a UK-issued Mastercard. The ATM withdrawal fee was 2,500 IQD. I tried an International Development Bank ATM without success.
Almost no places take cards. I stayed in 5 different cities, Duhok, Akre, Soran, Erbil and Slemani (aka Sulaymaniyah), only the Dolphin hotel here accepted payment by card. I didn't go shopping at any malls.
Changing dollars, euros, pounds, leftover Turkish lira and probably a whole host of other currencies is very easy. Around the bazaars in Duhok, Erbil and Slemani, there are plenty of them.
Money used in Kurdistan is issued by the Central Bank of Iraq. The notes come in denominations of 25,000, 10,000, 5,000, 1,000, 500 and 250 Iraqi Dinar (IQD). When I was there, May 2025, 1 USD was 1,310 on Google and the rate at the money changers was 1,442.
Almost no places take cards. I stayed in 5 different cities, Duhok, Akre, Soran, Erbil and Slemani (aka Sulaymaniyah), only the Dolphin hotel here accepted payment by card. I didn't go shopping at any malls.
Changing dollars, euros, pounds, leftover Turkish lira and probably a whole host of other currencies is very easy. Around the bazaars in Duhok, Erbil and Slemani, there are plenty of them.
Money used in Kurdistan is issued by the Central Bank of Iraq. The notes come in denominations of 25,000, 10,000, 5,000, 1,000, 500 and 250 Iraqi Dinar (IQD). When I was there, May 2025, 1 USD was 1,310 on Google and the rate at the money changers was 1,442.
Getting around in Kurdistan
Within the cities, taxis are your best bet. There is little or no public transport and when there is, you are gonna need some Kurdish. In Ebil, you can use the Careem Ride Hailing App. This is the Middle Easts answer to Uber and operates in selected cities in Egypt, Jordan, Bahrain, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Pakistan, Kuwait, UAE and Morocco.
Travelling on to the Federal Republic of Iraq
You can not enter the Federal Republic of Iraq using your Kurdistan e-Visa. You need to apply online for a separate visa.
Iraq has abolished visas on arrival for 37 nationalities, including Europeans, Americans and Britons. Since March 1, 2025, travellers must obtain an electronic visa (e-Visa) before departure.
Source: https://visasnews.com/en/.
You can easily get to Mosul from Erbil International Bus Station. And from Mosul, it is easy to get to Baghdad.
