Backpacking in Madagascar: My Top 8 Sights in Fianarantsoa
Fianarantsoa is a bit of a mouthful, thankfully they like to shortern it to Fianar.
Fianarantsoa is the capital of the Haute Matsiatra Region in south central Madagascar and lies at an average altitude of 1200m. I am here in their winter, the sun was strong during the day, the nights cool, bordering on cold.
I arrived from Manakara, just as darkness descended after the Taxi-Brousse guys dithered. Its 240km and we didn't leave until almost 10 am. As this is Africa TIA, don't believe anyone when they say it will be 6 or 7 hours. The only good part of the day was arriving and finding a little oasis at the Vannie Hotel, a mid range hotel. Avoid the real low budget hotels as they are as tiring as fuck.
Good WiFi (mostly), receptionist spoke English, and breakfast the next morning. Drinking a coffee the next morning was a relaxing experience as normally I drink the street coffee which is a bit like the Italian Espresso experience, you drink it standing up. You drink it for the kick. The size is so small, there ain't much to enjoy.
Fianarantsoa is the capital of the Haute Matsiatra Region in south central Madagascar and lies at an average altitude of 1200m. I am here in their winter, the sun was strong during the day, the nights cool, bordering on cold.
I arrived from Manakara, just as darkness descended after the Taxi-Brousse guys dithered. Its 240km and we didn't leave until almost 10 am. As this is Africa TIA, don't believe anyone when they say it will be 6 or 7 hours. The only good part of the day was arriving and finding a little oasis at the Vannie Hotel, a mid range hotel. Avoid the real low budget hotels as they are as tiring as fuck.
Good WiFi (mostly), receptionist spoke English, and breakfast the next morning. Drinking a coffee the next morning was a relaxing experience as normally I drink the street coffee which is a bit like the Italian Espresso experience, you drink it standing up. You drink it for the kick. The size is so small, there ain't much to enjoy.
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Admittedly, there ain't that much to see in Fianarantsoa but with a good hotel, it makes a decent place to break up the journey before going to Antsirabe, and get some rest.
I spent 2 days backpacking quirky Fianarantsoa and here are my top 8 sights (not much info on the churches though but worth a look):
I spent 2 days backpacking quirky Fianarantsoa and here are my top 8 sights (not much info on the churches though but worth a look):
1. Gare de Fianarantsoa:
You now, once again, travel from Fianarantsoa to Manakara by train. The line is operated by the Fianarantsoa-Côte Est (FCE). The line was built by the French between 1926 and 1936. This area of Madagascar has been devastated by numerous cyclones and in 2000 alone, there were 280 landslides.
As of July 2023, the train departs from Fianarantsoa on Thursdays and makes the return trip on Fridays. Derailments and other breakdowns are still very common.
There is a 2 tier pricing system. Foreigners are required to travel 1st Class and the cost is 180,000Ar. Economy is 70,000Ar which, compared to the train from Tamatave to Moromanga and to the bus fare, is outrageously expensive for locals.
As of July 2023, the train departs from Fianarantsoa on Thursdays and makes the return trip on Fridays. Derailments and other breakdowns are still very common.
There is a 2 tier pricing system. Foreigners are required to travel 1st Class and the cost is 180,000Ar. Economy is 70,000Ar which, compared to the train from Tamatave to Moromanga and to the bus fare, is outrageously expensive for locals.
2. Katolika Church:
This church is down town behind the stadium.
3. Hotel de la Ville de Fianarantsoa:
The Hotel de La Ville - the town hall.
4. Cathédrale St Nom de Jésus Ambozontany:
The Holy Name of Jesus Cathedral serves at the Roman Catholic Church in Fianarantso and was founded in 1871. It is located at the bottom of the Rue du Rova in the old town.
5. FLM Masombahoaka Church:
This is the Lutheran Church in Fianarantsoa as part of the Fiangonana Loterana Malagasy independent church. This particular one dates from 1885.
6. FJKM Antranobiriky Church:
FJKM - Fiangonan'i Jesoa Kristy eto Madigasikara on the Rue du Rova in the old town.
7. FJKM Ambalavoa Fahazavana Church:
Another FJKM church on the Rue du Rova in the old town.
8. La Table du Rova
Not really a sight per se but in a country that is severely lacking in café culture, the La Table du Rova is a little oasis of tranquility in the Haute Ville in Fianarantsoa.
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Practicalities for the traveller in Fianarantsoa:
There are BNI Madagascar and AcessBanque ATMs both of which offer free cash withdrawals. The BNI bank has a 200,000Ar limit per withdrawal.
There are little stalls everywhere but if you need some other products there are Score and Carrefour supermarkets.
Taxis-Brousse run to Antsirabe, 25,000Ar. The road has deteriorated and the journey is pleasant enough but now almost 8 hours with a 30-minute break.
There are little stalls everywhere but if you need some other products there are Score and Carrefour supermarkets.
Taxis-Brousse run to Antsirabe, 25,000Ar. The road has deteriorated and the journey is pleasant enough but now almost 8 hours with a 30-minute break.
