Backpacking in Tunisia: Kairouan & El Jem
Posted on January 19 2020 | Tagged: Tunisia
Backpacking in Kairouan and El Jem. Things to see in Kairouan and El Jem - stories, photos and important getting there and away advice.
First stop after Tunis, Kairouan, 155km to the south. Kairouan is regarded as the 4th holiest city in Islam (after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem).
First stop after Tunis, Kairouan, 155km to the south. Kairouan is regarded as the 4th holiest city in Islam (after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem).
This post and posts yet to be written will follow the same lines and will include the good and the bad bits associated with long term, budget travel. #publictransportonly.
How to get from Tunis to Kairouan by public transportation:
From the Auberge de Jeunesse in Tunis to the Gare Routière Sud it takes about 30 minutes on foot.
Louages depart from across the road from the long-distance bus station. It's a bit chaotic.
I was told I must go to Sousse and change. Why? I had no idea.
I went and checked out the buses. A row of guichets all closed bar one with about 10 people queuing up. With destinations only in Arabic and only 3 or four departure times displayed I went back to the louages with my tail between legs and opted for the CHANGE IN SOUSSE option.
Louages depart from across the road from the long-distance bus station. It's a bit chaotic.
I was told I must go to Sousse and change. Why? I had no idea.
I went and checked out the buses. A row of guichets all closed bar one with about 10 people queuing up. With destinations only in Arabic and only 3 or four departure times displayed I went back to the louages with my tail between legs and opted for the CHANGE IN SOUSSE option.
11 Dinar to Sousse. Journey time 1 hr 45. Luckily, louages to Kairouan depart from the same Gare Routière de Sousse.
Far more organised than in Tunis.
There was even a guichet. Fare to Kairouan, 4,900 Dinar. Journey time 45 minutes.
There was even a guichet. Fare to Kairouan, 4,900 Dinar. Journey time 45 minutes.
Cheapest hostel in Kairouan:
I hit the streets keeping my eyes peeled for a back street hotel. Nothing.
I kept on going, heading south and then east to a hotel I'd found on Google Maps. I had no idea on what would await me but my worries were swept away.
A simple hotel and a room with 2 singles for just 20 Dinar. That's 6€60.
There are no mod cons (except fast WIFI). It's freezing inside, the bathrooms are bleak but no unpleasant smells. I will make my business quickly though. I can shower another time. Welcome to the Hotel Ettaoufiq.
I kept on going, heading south and then east to a hotel I'd found on Google Maps. I had no idea on what would await me but my worries were swept away.
A simple hotel and a room with 2 singles for just 20 Dinar. That's 6€60.
There are no mod cons (except fast WIFI). It's freezing inside, the bathrooms are bleak but no unpleasant smells. I will make my business quickly though. I can shower another time. Welcome to the Hotel Ettaoufiq.
"Kairouan, in Arabicالقيروان (also known as Kairwan, Kayrawan, Al Qayrawan) is a Muslim holy city which ranks fourth after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem as a place of pilgrimage. It is reputed that seven visits here are the equivalent of one to Mecca." source Wikitravel
Which is a strange fact as I'd never even heard of Kairouan before and it's hard to get the pronunciation just right. It's not Kairo-u-an. It's Kayra-wan.
I had to Google Medina too. That's in Saudi.
I found a little supermarket. I bought a 16 pack of President cheese triangles (for back up) and some sardines.
An old lady was hanging out by the checkout. She was packing peoples shopping. I asked if she worked here. The girls laughed. "Non non.'
I gave her some coins. She turned away. Possibly insulted. If this had happened in Tunis she would have demanded 10 Dinar.
A fellow traveller got hit in Tunis yesterday:
This old guy struck up a conversation with him and showed him a few ancient doorways and the café with the rooftop view then shoved his hand out. The hapless tourist gave him 20 Dinar and he got aggressive demanding 40 Dinar. Lmao.
I found the bakers and bought 2 freshly baked baguettes. 200 each. I didn't have enough coins. The guy next to me chipped in to save the cashier giving me change from a 10 Dinar note.
I tore off a chunk of bread, squashed in 2 cheese triangles and stuffed my face. It was gone 3 pm. I hadn't eaten or drunk anything since the "Breakfast of Legionnaires" (bread and coffee) at the hostel.
Opposite the Bab Tunisia, at the Café - Nuits de l'Orient, I asked for a Thé an lá Menthe and joined the men doing sweet FA.
I walked around making a mental note that I could go inside the mosque from 8 am tomorrow.
I saw a group of about 15 Japanese tourists.
I got a Chapati Special for dinner. On one chapati he puts tuna, cheese, chilli pepper sauce, salami, and God knows what else, then makes 2 thin omelettes puts them on top, with a few olives and the mandatory onions and another chapati on top, which I eat walking home.
I couldn't finish it all so I put it down for one of the thousands of stray cats. He turned his nose up at it. Hmm.
Which is a strange fact as I'd never even heard of Kairouan before and it's hard to get the pronunciation just right. It's not Kairo-u-an. It's Kayra-wan.
I had to Google Medina too. That's in Saudi.
I found a little supermarket. I bought a 16 pack of President cheese triangles (for back up) and some sardines.
An old lady was hanging out by the checkout. She was packing peoples shopping. I asked if she worked here. The girls laughed. "Non non.'
I gave her some coins. She turned away. Possibly insulted. If this had happened in Tunis she would have demanded 10 Dinar.
A fellow traveller got hit in Tunis yesterday:
This old guy struck up a conversation with him and showed him a few ancient doorways and the café with the rooftop view then shoved his hand out. The hapless tourist gave him 20 Dinar and he got aggressive demanding 40 Dinar. Lmao.
I found the bakers and bought 2 freshly baked baguettes. 200 each. I didn't have enough coins. The guy next to me chipped in to save the cashier giving me change from a 10 Dinar note.
I tore off a chunk of bread, squashed in 2 cheese triangles and stuffed my face. It was gone 3 pm. I hadn't eaten or drunk anything since the "Breakfast of Legionnaires" (bread and coffee) at the hostel.
Opposite the Bab Tunisia, at the Café - Nuits de l'Orient, I asked for a Thé an lá Menthe and joined the men doing sweet FA.
I walked around making a mental note that I could go inside the mosque from 8 am tomorrow.
I saw a group of about 15 Japanese tourists.
I got a Chapati Special for dinner. On one chapati he puts tuna, cheese, chilli pepper sauce, salami, and God knows what else, then makes 2 thin omelettes puts them on top, with a few olives and the mandatory onions and another chapati on top, which I eat walking home.
I couldn't finish it all so I put it down for one of the thousands of stray cats. He turned his nose up at it. Hmm.
After a bit of a tough night, I still have to explore. By the time I had dithered about the sun was gaining some strength so I went for a coffee at the Café Nuits de l'Orient and joined the 30 or so men folk all doing the same thing. Catching some rays to warm one's soul. No idea where the women go. Probably at home clearing up after their men no doubt. The image below is a sneaky cell phone shot.
So then I headed for the Grand Mosque and got a day ticket for 6 attractions in Kairouan. The mosque is open for visitors every day from 8 am until 2 pm except on Friday when it's 8 am until 12 noon. It goes without saying that the prayer room is off-limits for non-Muslims and please go suitably dressed.
The 6 sites included in the combo ticket include la grande mosquée de Kairouan, Mausolée Sidi Abada, Sidi Abid, Abi Zamaa, Basin Aghlabites and the Musęe Rakadda. I didn't get to the Rakadda as it is 10km out of town. I did 5 out of the 6, though didn't always go inside and photos may be missing as interior shots are a bit too dark.
How to get from Kairouan to El Jem by public transportation:
And the next day, from Kairouan back to Sousse, 4,900 Dinar, 45 minutes then to El Jem, 5,600, 1 hour.
El Jem or El Dgem, home of the El Jem amphitheatre. You can read all about it on Wikipedia but as long as you enjoy my photos as well. The place is massive and the sun completely in the wrong place for good photos, so apologies.
And finally, my third louage of the day to Sfax, 6 Dinar, 1 hour. It terminates at the main louage station. And then a 20-minute walk to the Auberge de Jeunesee, (YHA). A single bed in a 3-bed dorm, just for yours truly. It's another ultra basic set up but much cleaner than the hotel in Kairouan. And wonders of all, hot water showers. Heaven. And just 20 Dinars a night. Breakfast is 2 Dinar extra. There is a mini Carrefour supermarket just up the road and a few cafes.
So that's the Kairouan, getting there and away by #publictransportonly (with El Jem thrown in for good measure) post.
Thanks for reading.
So that's the Kairouan, getting there and away by #publictransportonly (with El Jem thrown in for good measure) post.
Thanks for reading.
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