Backpacking in Madagascar: Waiting for the train in Toamasina
July 1 2023 | Tagged: Madagascar
Antananarivo, the truth be known, I stayed there too long. The city is a mess. I fear I lost 1 year of my life in that week. The traffic fumes from Les Taxis-Brousse and those annoying little mopeds clogging the streets were horrendous. I am sorry Tana. I tried to like you. The best place to visit whilst based in Tana is the Lemurs' Park, 22km from town.
I took a COTISSE Transport Taxi-Brousse all the way to Toamasina sometimes called Tamatave. I had expected the journey to be a nightmare. I expected the scheduled 10-hour journey to end up being 15. Yes the National Highway RN1 had more potholes than is really necessary, and I don't mean little bumps. The holes were massive, but I am a veteran of 23 African countries. Compared to West Africa, this highway was a breeze. And we arrived in just 9 ½ hours. Bravo to the driver.
I took a room at the JRJ Hotel just minutes away from the COTISSE Transport station. I secured a massive room with a double bed, TV, my own bathroom with piping hot water, AirCon and super fast Wi-Fi for just 55,000 Ar.
I took a COTISSE Transport Taxi-Brousse all the way to Toamasina sometimes called Tamatave. I had expected the journey to be a nightmare. I expected the scheduled 10-hour journey to end up being 15. Yes the National Highway RN1 had more potholes than is really necessary, and I don't mean little bumps. The holes were massive, but I am a veteran of 23 African countries. Compared to West Africa, this highway was a breeze. And we arrived in just 9 ½ hours. Bravo to the driver.
I took a room at the JRJ Hotel just minutes away from the COTISSE Transport station. I secured a massive room with a double bed, TV, my own bathroom with piping hot water, AirCon and super fast Wi-Fi for just 55,000 Ar.
Sampling the Madagascar World Cola:
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The passenger train service from Moramanga to Toamasina has just been restarted. And I mean, JUST as in this month, June 2023. And I was here to travel by train on the section from Toamasina to Brickaville, a distance of about 100km. And after the journey would continue south, down the east coast all the way to Manakara on what would be my most adventurous travels in years.
By default, I would possibly be the first traveller, backpacker to take this train. I haven't see one backpacker in town yet, just grizzly faced French Expats. And I hope I am the first blogger to take this train and produce a report on it. Of course the whole experience required a post dedicated to it.
By default, I would possibly be the first traveller, backpacker to take this train. I haven't see one backpacker in town yet, just grizzly faced French Expats. And I hope I am the first blogger to take this train and produce a report on it. Of course the whole experience required a post dedicated to it.
I can hear some of you saying, "Yeah it's just a train". Umm No. It's not just a train.
This is an African train.
People blog about the Glasgow to Fort William train or the London to Edinburgh Waverley Sleeper train. They are just trains.
This is an African train. A totally different ball game. A game where it is actually faster to cycle than to take the train.
African trains are generally 5 times cheaper than the bus but take 3 times as long. If you wanna get anywhere in a hurry, you don't take the train, not here in Africa.
So while I waited for the train, I backpacked the city of Toamasina.
This is an African train.
People blog about the Glasgow to Fort William train or the London to Edinburgh Waverley Sleeper train. They are just trains.
This is an African train. A totally different ball game. A game where it is actually faster to cycle than to take the train.
African trains are generally 5 times cheaper than the bus but take 3 times as long. If you wanna get anywhere in a hurry, you don't take the train, not here in Africa.
So while I waited for the train, I backpacked the city of Toamasina.
Gare des Manguiers Tamatave:
As I am here to take the weekly train from Toamasina, top place to see in town is La Gare des Manguiers. It's the final stop on the line from Tananarive the old French name for Antananarivo.
Avenue de L'Independance:
The Avenue de L'Independance runs eastwards from La Gare des Manguiers. I was here in the week leading up to the Independence Day celebrations:
The Beach:
I've been spoilt by the beach in Zipolite, but the locals seems to enjoy it:
Nice back-drop for a beach:
Notre Dame de Lourdes (Catholic Church):
Tamatave Mosque:
Logistics in Toamasina:
From a pratical point if view, Toamasina has the MCB, BNI ATMs which offer free cash withdrawals and the Societe Generale and Bank of Africa ATMs.
There are 2 money changers. 1 is next to La Terrasse, the French Expat hangout but you get better rates at the one down Rue de Joffre, 2 doors south of Hotel Eden.
Best place for breakfast is probably the La Terrasse. Then there is the Geckos Bar which favours the British Expats in town. Super friendy staff. Check it out, its next to the Nica Hotel.
There are 2 SCORE supermarkets and a SHOPRITE/SUPER U.
There are 2 money changers. 1 is next to La Terrasse, the French Expat hangout but you get better rates at the one down Rue de Joffre, 2 doors south of Hotel Eden.
Best place for breakfast is probably the La Terrasse. Then there is the Geckos Bar which favours the British Expats in town. Super friendy staff. Check it out, its next to the Nica Hotel.
There are 2 SCORE supermarkets and a SHOPRITE/SUPER U.
