Backpacking in Serbia - Belgrade/Beograd (During the Pandemic)
July 13 2020 | Tagged: The Balkans
Having been stuck in Kenya for almost 3 months, I finally escaped on a KLM evac to Amsterdam and then continued to Beograd/Belgrade where I spent 3 weeks.
How to get from the Nikola Tesla Airport (BEG) in Beograd to the centre of town:
Bus #72 leaves from departures every 30 minutes. I bought my ticket from the driver at 150RSD. The journey into town takes about 40minutes. Details correct as of July 2020.
This is during Corona. The risk of a 200$ fine in Kenya for not wearing one is a good incentive not to forget! Wearing a mask is now for me 2nd nature. This is what the 'learning to live with Corona' approach talked about in Kenya will be like.
City Break Hostel:
I had booked 1 night online @760 RSD. Paying directly is just 700 RSD for a bed in a 7-bed dorm directly under the roof, 7 floors up. With 109 steps I could stretch my legs again. It's pretty quiet at night, stinking hot in July, cleanish. Awesome very cold (if needed) showers, communal kitchen and lounge, very fast WIFI. No bed bugs! A few night time mozzies. Of course, I had my net strung up!
Thoughts on staying in a dorm room during Corona can be summed up in one word. 'Scary'. I wash the taps and door handles in the bathroom, cupboard handles and kettle in the kitchen and the main door gets a dose of hand sanitiser. I avoid touching things unnecessarily and keep my hands away from my mouth.
Back at street level, there is a Shop and Go supermarket 2 doors to the right, a money exchange on the corner and Bucko Pizzas 50 yards to the left on the other side. 90 RSD for a decent-sized slice or 540 RSD for a whole one (approx 12") - cash only.
I had booked 1 night online @760 RSD. Paying directly is just 700 RSD for a bed in a 7-bed dorm directly under the roof, 7 floors up. With 109 steps I could stretch my legs again. It's pretty quiet at night, stinking hot in July, cleanish. Awesome very cold (if needed) showers, communal kitchen and lounge, very fast WIFI. No bed bugs! A few night time mozzies. Of course, I had my net strung up!
Thoughts on staying in a dorm room during Corona can be summed up in one word. 'Scary'. I wash the taps and door handles in the bathroom, cupboard handles and kettle in the kitchen and the main door gets a dose of hand sanitiser. I avoid touching things unnecessarily and keep my hands away from my mouth.
Back at street level, there is a Shop and Go supermarket 2 doors to the right, a money exchange on the corner and Bucko Pizzas 50 yards to the left on the other side. 90 RSD for a decent-sized slice or 540 RSD for a whole one (approx 12") - cash only.
I rode #72 until Zeleni Venac (Зелени венац) then hiked to the City Break Hostel on Beogradska.
Where to stay in Beograd:
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Things to see and do in Beograd:
1. Visit the Temple of Saint Sava Church:
10 minutes walk away is the Temple of Saint Sava - Храм Светог Саве. The largest Orthodox church in the Balkans.
The total height is 82 m, the dome is 70 m high and the gold-plated cross another 12 m. The central dome weighs 4,000 tonnes. There are 49 bells and 18 gold-plated crosses. The best light is from around 5 pm.
The total height is 82 m, the dome is 70 m high and the gold-plated cross another 12 m. The central dome weighs 4,000 tonnes. There are 49 bells and 18 gold-plated crosses. The best light is from around 5 pm.
2. Visit the Museum of Yugoslavia:
From the City Break Hostel, it's about a 30minute walk to the Museum of Yugoslavia. Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 - 18:00, 400RSD. During Corona, masks are needed! On a weekday you'll most likely have the place to yourselves!
Lots of Josip Broz Tito memorabilia, not that much on the history of Yugoslavia. At least the captions are in English.
Lots of Josip Broz Tito memorabilia, not that much on the history of Yugoslavia. At least the captions are in English.
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3. Visit the Gardoš Tower in Zemun:
8km from downtown Beograd on the banks of the Danube is the bohemian like town of Zenum with the rather cool Gardoš Tower or Millenium Tower. I went with some guys from the City Break Hostel but the best light is late afternoon (I went back alone for the awesome photos).
We rode the bus #83 from Nemanjina street and walked back along the Danube.
We rode the bus #83 from Nemanjina street and walked back along the Danube.
4. Visit Avala:
I rode bus #401 from Birčaninova on Katičeva street not far from the City Break Hostel. I loaded my BusPlus card with 2 rides, that's 89RSD each and is good for the trip to Avala, even if Avala is in Zone 2 on the bus route! The lady in the tourist office told me 89RSD was good for 20km. Avala was 15km. Others had different ideas so I have no idea. The system is shit. They need to copy Tbilisi. The ride was about 40 minutes.
An easy 30 minute stroll up though the trees to the TV antenna. If you need to go up, it's 300RSD.
5. Coolest Place to Drink a Beer in Beograd:
Below the Kalemegdan Fortress, I found a floating bar "Kafana Tri papricice", right at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. Nice little spot - 0,5l Heineken draft 220RSD. Very easy to social distance - there ain't many people out and about - which suits me just fine! The waiter wears a mask, as did I until he is back inside, hand gel is provided.
6. The Kalemegdan Fortress:
The highlight of the city of Beograd is the Kalemegdan Fortress. A good place to wander around. Entrance is free. Many places to sit on the wall overlooking Novi-Grad and the Danube and Sava rivers.
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How to get around Beograd:
I bought a BusPlus card 250 RSD and topped it up as and when needed at 89 RSD per ride from the MOJ kiosks.
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Notes: Beograd is not in the EU, not under the Schengen agreement and does not use the €uro. The currency used, is the Republic of Serbia Dinar RSD. July 2020, 1US$ = 102RSD
