During the COVID-19 pandemic, I backpacked the 3 Ps of Kosovo. Prishtina, Peja and Prizren

After backpacking Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, I headed to Kosovo. I toured Prishtina and Peja before heading to Prizren.
I based myself at the Arra Hostel (now closed) in Prizren on the hill overlooking the city, below the Prizren fortress. It was run by 2 very enthusiastic and kind brothers. I chose it for the view.
This is now a very important aspect when choosing a place to stay. Priorities change when travelling slower in the #NewNormal.
A cool place to hang out in the evening when it’s been 36 degrees out, with a beer.
Corona was the perfect time for me to be in Prizren. In a normal summer season, Prizren hosts numerous festivals in August. Totally not my thing.

Prizren has 41 mosques, it has catholic churches, Turkish baths, a cathedral, a fortress and a former YUGOSLAV ARMY porn cinema.
The Prizren Fortress (Каlаја e Prizrenit) built on a hill above the city and the Prizren Bistrica or Prizren Lumbardhi river. A great spot to watch the sunset and also see the early morning light on the city below:


In the Southeast corner, by the ‘secret tunnel’, begins the Marashi Trail. You can see it on Google Maps or MapsMe. A good afternoon stroll and finishing by walking back along the river. It’s the route marked in yellow on the photo below:

I went on a longer hike with the two brothers:

We had an early start but on the hottest day of the summer so far, there is no real respite.

3 months of Coronavirus lockdown hadn’t done me any favours. I am now on the receiving end of a brutal pace set by the two brothers who were more than half my age. But the next morning I was the least shattered 😉 hope for the old dog yet!
Me ‘off the back’:

Mountain village view hiking above Prizren, Kosovo:

Our destination, a mountain sports centre/refuge, is a 2-hour and 30-minute walk from Prizren. Here I’m taking my rest

We were like Legionnaires. A 20km hike with no breakfast. But between us we carried melon, homemade bread, tomatoes, cucumber, capsicum and coffee to refuel with at the turn around point:

Top Sights in Prizren, Kosovo
I know this post is from 2020 but, I haven’t included any logistics so the post is totally evergreen.
Here are some ‘sights’ of interest in the town of Prizren that may deserve your attention:
The NATO Monument was inaugurated in June 2010 as a tribute to NATO for the liberation of and ongoing peacekeeping missions in Kosovo:

The Gazi Mehmet Pasha Hamam (Turkish Bath) is located near the Kukli-Mehmet Bey Mosque and the Emin Pasha Mosque. It was built between 1563-1574 by Gazi Mehmet Pasha and Sanjak-bey of Shkodra. Now a museum but sadly closed during my visit to Prizren – fucking Corona!

The Clock Tower was built in 1948, and the Archaeological Museum was opened on November 17, 1975; both were sadly closed.

Our Lady of Ljeviš:



The Stone Bridge dates from the 16th century. It was destroyed by floods in 1979 and rebuilt in 1982.

Shadervani square, the cultural, economic and social centre of Prizren. With the Shadernavi Fountain in the middle, where legend has it that if you drink the water, you will get married in Prizren. I declined, just in case it is true.
There are many cute cafes and bars in the square in which to hang out. The ‘best’ one really depends on the time of day with regard to the sun. I only drink coffee before 11 am, and I found ‘Hemingway’ was a great spot for people-watching:

The Sinan Pasha Mosque:

Church of the Holy Saviour:

Namazgah – mosque without a roof:

A bit of a mission for this one, 2.5km away from the centre, the Xhamia e Dëshmorëve – Martirëve with 2 minarets:

And last but not least, a good place for a 1€ draft beer is Destill (am sure you can find it – according to Google Maps, they are still in business). They serve Shok e Shoqe, a craft beer brewed in Gjilan:

That was my week in Prizren.