The Isle of Cumbrae for Backpackers – Scotland

This is a backstory from 2024, when I backpacked the coastal town of Largs and the Isle of Cumbrae in Scotland.

I love backpacking places that are off the radar for most tourists, and although the Isle of Cumbrae is not exactly a ‘hidden gem’, nor is it off the beaten track, as it is very accessible, it is well worth a visit.

The weather changes every few minutes, as you can see from the photos on this blog post. They are in sequence. Rain, wind, sleet and sun.

Forget the Four Seasons in One Day, here is in like Four Seasons within a few minutes. Take the appropriate wet-weather gear

How to get to The Isle of Cumbrae:

Take the train from Glasgow Central to Largs. This takes just over an hour.

The Largs to Cumbrae ferry is operated by Caledonian MacBrayne. When I visited in April 2024, it was going every 15 minutes. So, having backpacked most of Largs in between the showers, I took the ferry to the Isle of Cumbrae.

​The timing was essential.

The 13:15 and 13:45 ferry would connect with bus #320, which would take me to Millport, the main town on the island.

Largs to the Isle of Cumbrae Ferry

Ticket office for the Largs – Cumbrae Slip Ferry:

Ticket prices for the Largs to Cumbrae Slip ferry (prices from April 2024):

Return ticket to The Isle of Cumbrae:

Boarding the Largs to Cumbrae ferry:

The ferry takes just 10 minutes.

Arriving in Cumbrae:

Exploring The Isle of Cumbrae

Upon arrival on Cumbrae, there was a break in the weather, momentarily sunny. I took the opportunity and walked the short distance to the HMS Shearwater Memorial.

The HMS Shearwater Memorial was erected by the Officers of HMS Shearwater in memory of two midshipmen who drowned nearby in 1844.

It’s less than 10 minutes away. Enough time for a few photos and then back for the bus.

Bus #320 runs from the Cumbrae Slip (where the ferry arrives) to Millport:

Bus #320 Cumbrae Slip to Millport Pier timetable:

Cumbrae Slip to Millport Pier bus ticket fares:

Return ticket, card or cash:

Enjoying the scenery on the road from the ferry terminal to the town of Millport through the dirty window:

Arrival in Millport. The last stop is Cardiff Street. Here’s the schedule going back to Cumbrae Slip:

But first, time for some liquid refreshment at the Millport Pier Hotel. Henry would approve, as it is Dog-Friendly.

If time is on your side, you could stay overnight at Millport Pier Hotel.

You could hire a bike for some local exploration. There are a couple of Bike Hire shops.

Cycling around the island would be awesome in the summer months. It’s not really a good option with heavy showers mixed with hail coming through in mid-April.

If you have some good wet weather gear, plenty of hiking to be had too:

Yet I was content to walk around the small town.

Island Life.

It’s a lot smaller than Rathlin Island in Northern Ireland, but much more developed. There’s a big convenience store, an ATM, and a few cafes.

I backpacked a few places of possible interest. There ain’t a whole lot to see but it made a cracking day out combined with backpacking the town of Largs.
​
The Cathedral of The Isles & College of The Holy Spirit. Dating from 1851, it’s Britain’s smallest cathedral.

The Garrison House with its Sunken Garden, doubles as the Cumbrae Museum, cafe, library and medical practice. It dates from 1745 and was built as the residence of the Captain and officers of the Revenue Sailing Ship the ‘Royal George’ but was rebuilt in 2001 after a fire.

Or just stroll along the coast with epic views, the war memorial and crazy golf:

Taking the bus back, it connects with the ferry:

I got some food at the Nardini Cafe and then backpacked Largs a bit more before taking the train back to Glasgow Central: