Backpacking the Mayan Ruins of Tikal | Guatemala

August 4 2021

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Totally buzzed that I finally got to visit the Mayan ruins of Tikal in northern Guatemala
​The archaeological site of Tikal, the most magnificent of Mayan ruins, the temples of which, rise up out of the jungle:
​This place is simply stunning. Which is exactly why it should be on your bucket list.

Its remoteness is part of the charm.

​Teotihuacán is just an hour from Mexico City. The pyramids of Giza are just a short trip from Cairo.

Tikal lies 520km from Guatemala City. 12 hours +/- by bus, though there is an airport in Santa Elena. But either way, a trip to Tikal requires some planning.

​You can't just think, 'hmm what shall we do to this afternoon? I know, let's go to Tikal"

And the archaeological site of Tikal lies in the middle of a 576 km² UNESCO designated national park.
​Flores is the traditional gateway for travellers going to Tikal. Many chose to fly up from Guatemala City, get bussed out to Tikal, do a sunset tour, relax in a jacuzzi, get up for sunrise, take the obligatory InstaPic and fly back.

Those with more time than money, like me, hang out in Flores for a week, scheduling a trip to Tikal when the moment feels right. I'm a part of a dying breed.

Many described Flores as being the noisiest town in Guatemala. Not in my experience. Maybe just because of Covid.

Maybe because it's the height of the rainy season. Though it does not rain every day. It's just that when it does, it really comes down.

They could do a lot to improve the small island which takes about 15 minutes to walk around, if that. They could ban all non essential cars and the young lads on motorbikes who just like to cruise around, looking cool, creating small traffic jams.

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The author, posing in front of Temple I, also known as the Temple of the Jaguar, standing 45m high and dates from around 700AD. The tomb of Ah Cacao was found inside:
Tikal was first inhabited way back in 800BC and for unknown reasons, abandoned around 900AD.
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Only 16 km² has been 'mapped', and they say that this is just 15% of what lies 'out there', hidden in the jungle.
Above and below: Temple II. Also known as the Temple of Masks, it stands 38m high and dates from around 700AD.
You can climb up the wooden steps on the south side of Temple IV, which is the tallest of the 6 main temples at Tikal, at 65m. Also known as the Temple of the Bicephalous Snake and dates from 740 AD. Awesome views across the trees of Tikal:
Temple III, also known as the Temple of the Great Priest, standing 60m high and dates from around 810AD. It is best viewed from Temple IV as it is very over grown:
Temple V, 57m high and built between 550 and 850 AD:
The Lost World. Here you can pretend you are Indiana Jones or Lara Croft:

​​How to get to Tikal from Flores

​Another one of these things I will never understand. A colectivo from the main bus station in Flores will cost you 150Q return.
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That's 20 USD for a 130km round trip. I would have thought a public colectivo would have been cheaper than a tourist shuttle.

But once again, as with the trip to Sumidero Canyon in Mexico, the tourist shuttle is not only cheaper but definitely the way to go. It just makes whole getting there and away a million times easier, leaving you with more energy to explore Tikal. And with the energy-sapping jungle humidity, you need all your energy.

The archaeological site of Tikal is spread out over 16km². I walked more than 10km.

Having seen the prices quoted at several places in town, I went with the tourist shuttle as offered by my guest house, the Hotel Posada Tayazal. Transport only option, just 85Q or with guide, 125Q. These are return ticket prices.

Quite a difference to the colectivo fare.

So the girl at the Hotel Posada Tayazal called, I paid my dues. Easy.

Pick up was at 04:30 the next morning, just next to the causeway linking the Isla de Flores to Santa Elena.

I was quoted that the return trip was at 12:30 but the guide who came along for the ride, as the 7 others wanted a guided trip said return was at 11 am. Luckily the others wanted a bit longer so we all agreed on 12 noon. This was ideal.

Flores to the archaeological site of Tikal is 63km but at KM 51 is the entrance to the Tikal Parc Natiónal where you stop and pay the entrance fee, which, as a foreigner is 150Q/20USD. And the ticket office opens at 6 am sharp.
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On GuateGo.com you can compare all the available transport options between Flores and Tikal:

​You then continue the final kilometres to the archaeological site of Tikal.

Where to stay in Flores


I stayed at the ​Hotel Posada Tayazal in Flores. It's on a quieter street than the hotels and restaurants on the 'ring-road.

I should share how I find these cheap options, but yup, you get what you pay for.

Flores is a tropical place. It's damp. In the rainy season, even more so. And it's common in Guatemala that rooms with external windows are rare. Rooms open to the corridor. This means it can be noisy and ventilation is not the best. You get what you pay for.

My own room with shared bathroom on the ground floor, with fan, probably a bit too dingy for too long. But just 50Q a night (6.50 USD). Helps offset the high costs across Guatemala.

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