Western Approaches HQ - Britain's Top-Secret Underground War Bunker
March 24 2023 | Tagged: United Kingdom
Exploring Britain's Top-Secret Underground War Bunker: Western Approaches HQ, the nerve centre in the Battle of the Atlantic under the streets of Liverpool.
I had taken the Ferry (a)cross the Mersey to backpack Birkenhead.
And near the Woodside ferry terminal (closed for renovation) is an upcoming museum "The U-Boat Story" and it mentioned the Western Approaches HQ 'Liverpool War Museum'.
So after exploring Birkenhead, I took the train to James Street Station and walked the short distance to Exchange Flags on Rumford Street and the Western Approaches HQ Museum.
And near the Woodside ferry terminal (closed for renovation) is an upcoming museum "The U-Boat Story" and it mentioned the Western Approaches HQ 'Liverpool War Museum'.
So after exploring Birkenhead, I took the train to James Street Station and walked the short distance to Exchange Flags on Rumford Street and the Western Approaches HQ Museum.
The Western Approaches HQ is like the 3rd part in a WORLD WAR II trilogy for Nomadic Backpacker.
First is Bletchley Park where Alan Turing et al, cracked the Enigma Code helping the Royal Navy locate the U-Boats in the Atlantic.
Second, are the Churchill War Rooms from where Winston Churchill directed the War.
And thirdly the Western Approaches HQ, a top-secret bunker below the streets of Liverpool that was the nerve centre to coordinate the Battle of the Atlantic.
I have since added a 4th part, the Battle of Britain Bunker Museum where RAF Fighter Command orchestrated the Battle of Britain.
Second, are the Churchill War Rooms from where Winston Churchill directed the War.
And thirdly the Western Approaches HQ, a top-secret bunker below the streets of Liverpool that was the nerve centre to coordinate the Battle of the Atlantic.
I have since added a 4th part, the Battle of Britain Bunker Museum where RAF Fighter Command orchestrated the Battle of Britain.
Liverpool was the main Atlantic Convoy port, and in 1940, Churchill ordered that a new Combined Operations headquarters be set up in Liverpool as the base in Plymouth was no longer suitable.
In 1941, the Western Approaches headquarters was established at Derby House, Liverpool and occupied a reinforced basement 2 floors below ground and was responsible for coordinating the effort against the German U-boats that were operating in the Atlantic.
On 17 February 1941, Admiral Sir Percy Noble was appointed as the new Commander-in-Chief of Western Approaches Command and in November 1942, Admiral Max Horton replaced Admiral Noble as Commander-in-Chief until Western Approaches Command closed on 15 August 1945.
Horton’s leadership played a vital role in defeating the U-boats by deploying several "support groups" which operated independently of the regular convoy escorts and thus had more freedom, thus creating a tactical advantage.
The Western Approaches Command was staffed largely by the women of the Women’s Royal Naval Service, known as Wrens, and the Women’s Auxiliary Air Force, or WAAFs.
They were employed in the main Operations Room, decoding incoming signals, acting as radio and teleprinter operators, and even training naval officers in anti-submarine warfare.
In 1941, the Western Approaches headquarters was established at Derby House, Liverpool and occupied a reinforced basement 2 floors below ground and was responsible for coordinating the effort against the German U-boats that were operating in the Atlantic.
On 17 February 1941, Admiral Sir Percy Noble was appointed as the new Commander-in-Chief of Western Approaches Command and in November 1942, Admiral Max Horton replaced Admiral Noble as Commander-in-Chief until Western Approaches Command closed on 15 August 1945.
Horton’s leadership played a vital role in defeating the U-boats by deploying several "support groups" which operated independently of the regular convoy escorts and thus had more freedom, thus creating a tactical advantage.
The Western Approaches Command was staffed largely by the women of the Women’s Royal Naval Service, known as Wrens, and the Women’s Auxiliary Air Force, or WAAFs.
They were employed in the main Operations Room, decoding incoming signals, acting as radio and teleprinter operators, and even training naval officers in anti-submarine warfare.
They have mock Dock Street to give visitors an idea of how a 1940s street would have looked, with a shop front, shelves and an old sign:
The Map Room:
Captain Fredric John 'Johnnie' Walker, the most successful anti-submarine warfare commander during the Battle of the Atlantic:
In January 1942, the Western Approaches Tactical Unit (WATU) was formed to develop new tactics to counter German submarine attacks on trans-Atlantic shipping convoys. WATU was run out of Derby House and was commanded by Captain Gilbert Roberts and staffed by officers from the Women’s Royal Naval Service.
Typical ID card for staff at the Western Approaches HQ:
The Western Approaches HQ was fully operational until May 1945 when the Germans surrendered. After that, the HQ was abandoned and simply left. A bit like Bletchley Park. Those employed there were bound Under the Official Secrets Act.
It opened as a museum in 1993.
It opened as a museum in 1993.
U-Boat 534
U-Boat 534 was the last submarine to be sunk in World War 2. The captain had been notified by the harbour master in Denmark detailing the ceasefire following Germany's surrender, but refused to show the white flag.
U-boat 534 was later sunk by 2 RAF Liberators, and it wasn't until 1993 that it was recovered and moved to Birkenhead Docks, where it remained until its closure in 2006 and then was moved to Woodside Station and became part of the U-Boat Story until 2020.
Big Heritage, which Western Approaches is part of, acquired it in 2021, and they are planning to open a Battle of the Atlantic Centre in 2024.
The most important find when U-Boat 534 was recovered is one of the German Enigma machines - another link back to Bletchley Park.
U-boat 534 was later sunk by 2 RAF Liberators, and it wasn't until 1993 that it was recovered and moved to Birkenhead Docks, where it remained until its closure in 2006 and then was moved to Woodside Station and became part of the U-Boat Story until 2020.
Big Heritage, which Western Approaches is part of, acquired it in 2021, and they are planning to open a Battle of the Atlantic Centre in 2024.
The most important find when U-Boat 534 was recovered is one of the German Enigma machines - another link back to Bletchley Park.
Planning your trip to the Western Approaches HQ
Official Website: Western Approaches HQ
Where is the Western Approaches HQ located:
1-3 Rumford Street
Exchange Flags
Liverpool
Merseyside
L2 8SZ
Tel: 0151 227 2008
Exchange Flags
Liverpool
Merseyside
L2 8SZ
Tel: 0151 227 2008
Western Approaches HQ Opening Times:
The Western Approaches HQ is open Monday to Sunday, 10 am until 6 pm
Western Approaches HQ Tickets:
Just so you know, Western Approaches is now a cashless museum.
Prices have increased since I visited. Entrance fees for Adults: £14.50 (taken from their website Feb 2025).
Prices have increased since I visited. Entrance fees for Adults: £14.50 (taken from their website Feb 2025).
Western Approaches HQ also welcomes school and youth groups and is committed to educating students about the part it played during the Second World War.
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