A Look Back At The Last Two Years Of Travels
January 7 2022
January 5 2022, I'm in Mexico City. Today is my 731st day of travel. I have completed two years of travel. Tomorrow marks the actual anniversary, January 6, the day I said goodbye to my dad, again and set off for France.
Despite the crazy world of masks, hand sanitiser, PCR tests, antigen tests, quarantine, lockdowns, isolation and vaccinations, that we now live in, I am still on the road. Not that I wanted to behave irresponsibly but I had nowhere to go home to. So I just stayed away.
In these 2 years, I have travelled extensively as a low-budget traveller backpacker through 13 countries, 7 for the first time on 4 continents.
It hasn't always been fun. Only the first 2 months were Covid Free Travel. I suffered a lot from anxiety brought on by COVID-19. The uncertainty I experienced when stuck in Kenya, was soul-destroying.
My travels have been marred by the pandemic, that's for sure. All my plans and dreams for Africa never came to be and maybe never will be. I fear life as we knew it is gone for good.
But you could also say that my travels have been shaped by the pandemic. A bit like a glass being half-full or half-empty.
If it hadn't been for Covid, I would never have made it to Central America, I would never have met my girl, Miss CDMX. Plenty to be grateful for there.
Here, drinking a beer with my girl, Miss CDMX on day 731:
Despite the crazy world of masks, hand sanitiser, PCR tests, antigen tests, quarantine, lockdowns, isolation and vaccinations, that we now live in, I am still on the road. Not that I wanted to behave irresponsibly but I had nowhere to go home to. So I just stayed away.
In these 2 years, I have travelled extensively as a low-budget traveller backpacker through 13 countries, 7 for the first time on 4 continents.
It hasn't always been fun. Only the first 2 months were Covid Free Travel. I suffered a lot from anxiety brought on by COVID-19. The uncertainty I experienced when stuck in Kenya, was soul-destroying.
My travels have been marred by the pandemic, that's for sure. All my plans and dreams for Africa never came to be and maybe never will be. I fear life as we knew it is gone for good.
But you could also say that my travels have been shaped by the pandemic. A bit like a glass being half-full or half-empty.
If it hadn't been for Covid, I would never have made it to Central America, I would never have met my girl, Miss CDMX. Plenty to be grateful for there.
Here, drinking a beer with my girl, Miss CDMX on day 731:
So I will take you through the 13 countries, with quite a few until now, unseen photos. Enjoy!
France
So having taken the Eurostar to Paris, I travelled down through France amid the longest strike since 1968, to paralyse France. I had booked a TGV to Marseille but I got a notification 3 days before I left to say that my connection had been cancelled.
The ferry company said that the ferry to Tunisia wasn't affected by the strike and with a bit of luck I found a seat on a Blah Blah Bus, Paris to Marseille.
But these obstacles set the scene for the rest of the trip. One thing after another but always there was a solution.
It was my first time in Marseille. I loved it there.
The ferry company said that the ferry to Tunisia wasn't affected by the strike and with a bit of luck I found a seat on a Blah Blah Bus, Paris to Marseille.
But these obstacles set the scene for the rest of the trip. One thing after another but always there was a solution.
It was my first time in Marseille. I loved it there.
Tunisia
A ferry to Tunisia, my 93rd country in the grand scheme of things. I like travelling in Muslim countries and in coming to Tunisia, I wasn't disappointed. I spent nearly a month exploring the country.
Senegal
I'd been in Senegal before but this time I got to explore and experience the craziness of Dakar. L’Île de Gorée was a real highlight:
Dakar was also an essential stop in that I needed a visa for the next country, Mali.
Mali
After a tough few days of bad roads in clapped-out bush taxis and minivans, I crossed into Mali and arrived in the capital, Bamako. Sadly, I didn't get to explore there. The security situation had taken a turn for the worse. So after getting my visa for Côte d'Ivoire, I got the hell out. I had wanted to go to Burkina Faso. On one hand, I wish I had gone. On the other hand, I am glad I didn't. We didn't know it just then, Covid was just around the corner.
In Sikasso, Mali, not far from the border with Ivory Coast (eyes swollen from the dust and intense heat):
In Sikasso, Mali, not far from the border with Ivory Coast (eyes swollen from the dust and intense heat):
Côte d'Ivoire
This was a great place for a backpacker like me; hot, dusty, rough and ready, yet easy to navigate and get around.
Getting to Kong was a bit of a mission but well worth the effort:
Getting to Kong was a bit of a mission but well worth the effort:
I backpacked Ferkessedougou, Kong, San Pedro, Sassandra, UNESCO World Heritage Town Grand-Bassam and the capital Abidjan.
Kenya
I then flew to Kenya, because I can only handle West Africa in bite-sized pieces. And once there, I promptly got stuck.
Kenya was certainly a better place to get stuck than West Africa. 3 months plus in Burkina Faso or Mali would have been kinda too crazy for me.
Kenya was bad enough yet I had a very easy life there. The airport was closed, as were land borders. I could still travel locally to a certain extent but what to do when most of the hotels locked their doors so I just paced around the gardens of the Guest House Jane letting the anxiety eat away at me.
I was a great group of people - the crew at the guest house really looked after me and I used to think how it would have been if I had gotten stuck in Grand-Bassam, as my buddy Jason did, for more than a fucking year. I guess I would have survived. But I probably would have gone native and my French would have been perfect.
Would I have been too scarred by the ordeal or would I have become stronger? I hazard a guess, it would have been the former but who knows.
Kenya is an amazing country. I got to go on my first ever safari, a self-guided walking safari at the Crescent Island Game Sanctuary in Naivasha, 60 miles from Nairobi:
Kenya was certainly a better place to get stuck than West Africa. 3 months plus in Burkina Faso or Mali would have been kinda too crazy for me.
Kenya was bad enough yet I had a very easy life there. The airport was closed, as were land borders. I could still travel locally to a certain extent but what to do when most of the hotels locked their doors so I just paced around the gardens of the Guest House Jane letting the anxiety eat away at me.
I was a great group of people - the crew at the guest house really looked after me and I used to think how it would have been if I had gotten stuck in Grand-Bassam, as my buddy Jason did, for more than a fucking year. I guess I would have survived. But I probably would have gone native and my French would have been perfect.
Would I have been too scarred by the ordeal or would I have become stronger? I hazard a guess, it would have been the former but who knows.
Kenya is an amazing country. I got to go on my first ever safari, a self-guided walking safari at the Crescent Island Game Sanctuary in Naivasha, 60 miles from Nairobi:
I was in contact with the British High Commissioner in Nairobi. I got notifications of evac flights getting stranded Europeans out.
I bided my time and after 103 days stuck in Naivasha, I flew KLM to Amsterdam. I wasn't required to continue to the UK, so I flew to Serbia as it was one of the few countries still open at that time.
I bided my time and after 103 days stuck in Naivasha, I flew KLM to Amsterdam. I wasn't required to continue to the UK, so I flew to Serbia as it was one of the few countries still open at that time.
Serbia
Life was good and easy in Belgrade. The hostel had some great characters staying there. There were no restrictions on travelling but you needed to wear a mask.
I had been there before back in 2011 but this time, I enjoyed more than 3 weeks, exploring.
I had been there before back in 2011 but this time, I enjoyed more than 3 weeks, exploring.
Kosovo
Kosovo was open so that's where I went. Travel became a question of going where you could, not always where you wanted to. At least I got a new country hit. And explore the Three Ps: Pristina, Peja and Prizren.
Albania
From Kosovo, the only place I could go to was Albania. I spent 2 months there. Other than the bed bugs, I love Albania.
Hiking Theth to Valbona in bad weather:
Hiking Theth to Valbona in bad weather:
I backpacked Gjirokaster and Berat, both UNESCO World Heritage towns and had fun riding the clapped-out Soviet-era train from Tirana to Durres.
North Macedonia
The border to Montenegro was only open if you took a test. I didn't want to do that unless there were no other options and getting into Greece required a bit of luck so I went to North Macedonia. Another new country hit.
I got to explore Ohrid in the off-season:
I got to explore Ohrid in the off-season:
I got to Skopje and the reality of how unpredictable travelling during Covid could be, hit me. I shared a dorm room with a Swiss guy who was the nephew of the guy who owned Pensão Creola in Guinea-Bissau where I had stayed in 2013.
He went for a covid test and of course, it came back positive. The health department called the hostel and me and another guy had to take private rooms where we stayed inside for 2 weeks.
The lady at the Ministry of Health kept me informed and I learnt a lot about the virus, as we knew back then. And this knowledge kept me safe.
As soon as I was able to leave, I booked a ticket on the bus to Istanbul.
He went for a covid test and of course, it came back positive. The health department called the hostel and me and another guy had to take private rooms where we stayed inside for 2 weeks.
The lady at the Ministry of Health kept me informed and I learnt a lot about the virus, as we knew back then. And this knowledge kept me safe.
As soon as I was able to leave, I booked a ticket on the bus to Istanbul.
Turkey
I was so happy to be able to get out and about again. Being holed up inside a small room for 2 weeks relying on the hostel owner to bring me food was like being in prison.
I backpacked Istanbul, Ankara, Cappadocia and Sanliurfa, places where I had been to before but all too briefly on other trips. Cappadocia in Winter is much preferable to Cappadocia in Summer. And before I had just spent the night in Sanliurfa before going to Syria back in 2010. Sanliurfa is a great city though my stay wasn't with drama.
I returned to the hotel after a hard days backpacking to find that there had been a fire on the floor below mine. 2020 was proving to be quite a year.
I backpacked Istanbul, Ankara, Cappadocia and Sanliurfa, places where I had been to before but all too briefly on other trips. Cappadocia in Winter is much preferable to Cappadocia in Summer. And before I had just spent the night in Sanliurfa before going to Syria back in 2010. Sanliurfa is a great city though my stay wasn't with drama.
I returned to the hotel after a hard days backpacking to find that there had been a fire on the floor below mine. 2020 was proving to be quite a year.
Turkey started to introduce nightly curfews and closing restaurants, so I hashed together a plan. Mexico was one of the few countries that were still open.
Mexico #1
After a week in Mexico City, I went to Oaxaca and then Zipolite where I forgot about life for a while. I celebrated Christmas, New Year and my first year of travels.
It's also where I met Miss CDMX.
After 5 more weeks in Oaxaca, I went back to Mexico City and stayed there for 2 months. We had lots of fun exploring the city and going to many places outside of the city on day trips.
Nomadic Backpacker backpacking Teotihuacán:
It's also where I met Miss CDMX.
After 5 more weeks in Oaxaca, I went back to Mexico City and stayed there for 2 months. We had lots of fun exploring the city and going to many places outside of the city on day trips.
Nomadic Backpacker backpacking Teotihuacán:
Glorious Zipolite sunsets:
With Miss CDMX, I backpacked Tepito, the most dangerous neighbourhood in Mexico City
Crossing from Mexico to Guatemala:
Crossing from Mexico to Guatemala:
Guatemala
Of course, my 180 days were soon to be up. I travelled to San Cristobal and then to Guatemala, my 99th country.
Guatemala is a little rougher around the edges than Mexico which I revelled in but I wasn't so keen on hearing the stories of travellers getting robbed when exploring the hills around Lake Atitlan.
I backpacked San Pedro, Panajachel, Antigua, Livingston, Rio Dulce and Flores, all the time blogging as I went.
Backpacking Lake Atitlan:
Guatemala is a little rougher around the edges than Mexico which I revelled in but I wasn't so keen on hearing the stories of travellers getting robbed when exploring the hills around Lake Atitlan.
I backpacked San Pedro, Panajachel, Antigua, Livingston, Rio Dulce and Flores, all the time blogging as I went.
Backpacking Lake Atitlan:
Mexico #2
I travelled back into Mexico, got my first dose of AstraZeneca and went off to explore the ruins at Palenque, Edzna and Chichén Itzá (below):
Backpacking in Mexico with Miss CDMX:
Timeout in Zipolite, Christmas 2021:
Statistics from the first two years:
4 continents, 13 countries, 55 cities, towns or villages, 61 different hostels, hotels, houses, 1 night boat, 4 night flights, 3 night buses.
France: Paris, Marseille
Tunisia: Tunis, Kairouan, Sfax, Douz, Tozeur, Sbeitla, El Kef
Senegal: Dakar, Tambacounda
Mali: Kayes, Bamako
Ivory Coast: Ferkessedougou, Kong, Yamoussoukro, Grand-Bassam, Abidjan
Kenya: Nairobi, Naivasha
Serbia: Belgrade
Kosovo: Pristina, Peja, Prizren
Albania: Tirana, Durres, Berat, Gjirokaster, Sarande, Shkodra (2 different hotels), Theth, Valbona, Pogradec
North Macedonia: Ohrid, Bitola, Prilep, Skopje
Turkey: Istanbul (2 different hotels), Ankara, Cappadocia, Sanliurfa (2 different hotels)
Mexico: Mexico City (3 different places of accommodation), Oaxaca, Zipolite, San Cristobal, Palenque, Campeche, Mérida
Guatemala: Quetzaltenango, San Pedro, Panajachel (2 different hotels), Antigua, Livingston, Rio Dulce, Flores
Number of covid tests taken: 1
4 continents, 13 countries, 55 cities, towns or villages, 61 different hostels, hotels, houses, 1 night boat, 4 night flights, 3 night buses.
France: Paris, Marseille
Tunisia: Tunis, Kairouan, Sfax, Douz, Tozeur, Sbeitla, El Kef
Senegal: Dakar, Tambacounda
Mali: Kayes, Bamako
Ivory Coast: Ferkessedougou, Kong, Yamoussoukro, Grand-Bassam, Abidjan
Kenya: Nairobi, Naivasha
Serbia: Belgrade
Kosovo: Pristina, Peja, Prizren
Albania: Tirana, Durres, Berat, Gjirokaster, Sarande, Shkodra (2 different hotels), Theth, Valbona, Pogradec
North Macedonia: Ohrid, Bitola, Prilep, Skopje
Turkey: Istanbul (2 different hotels), Ankara, Cappadocia, Sanliurfa (2 different hotels)
Mexico: Mexico City (3 different places of accommodation), Oaxaca, Zipolite, San Cristobal, Palenque, Campeche, Mérida
Guatemala: Quetzaltenango, San Pedro, Panajachel (2 different hotels), Antigua, Livingston, Rio Dulce, Flores
Number of covid tests taken: 1
Looking to the future
It's very hard to plan these days as things change with alarming frequency. But the name of the game is to stay ahead of the game. I want to avoid getting in another lockdown, I want to avoid getting put into government isolation, I want to stay alive and have some fun too.
My 100th country, the biggest milestone for me as a backpacker, is looming and I am hoping that this will attract some media attention.
Why? Money does not grow on trees. Yes, I do get a few donations through PayPal and Buy Me A Coffee but monies received do not cover my costs and well, my funds will eventually run out.
I hope I can get to the stage where the blog can cover my costs.
I need more traffic. More daily hits, more monthly page views and with that I can get some bargaining power and leverage.
I have also had more admin to deal with. Yes, I am double vaxed now but vaccinations given here in Mexico are not accepted by the UK or the WHO all for a lack of the Date of Birth on the certificate and in my case as I was issued with just a provisional id so I could get the vaccine, all I have are the bottom halves of the application form with no stamps or signatures. So I am trying to get at least a QR code here and get the vaccinations validated by the NHS back in the UK.
And yes, I faced drama with the bank too. They sent a new card to my dads. A friend tried twice to DHL it to me and twice DHL intercepted the package and said that it wasn't allowed to send unsigned bank cards.
Metro Bank blocked the wrong card and my card with 8 weeks left on it was swallowed by the ATM. At least I have come up with a solution for now. As to how good this will work out in the weeks to come, we'll have to wait and see.
My 100th country, the biggest milestone for me as a backpacker, is looming and I am hoping that this will attract some media attention.
Why? Money does not grow on trees. Yes, I do get a few donations through PayPal and Buy Me A Coffee but monies received do not cover my costs and well, my funds will eventually run out.
I hope I can get to the stage where the blog can cover my costs.
I need more traffic. More daily hits, more monthly page views and with that I can get some bargaining power and leverage.
I have also had more admin to deal with. Yes, I am double vaxed now but vaccinations given here in Mexico are not accepted by the UK or the WHO all for a lack of the Date of Birth on the certificate and in my case as I was issued with just a provisional id so I could get the vaccine, all I have are the bottom halves of the application form with no stamps or signatures. So I am trying to get at least a QR code here and get the vaccinations validated by the NHS back in the UK.
And yes, I faced drama with the bank too. They sent a new card to my dads. A friend tried twice to DHL it to me and twice DHL intercepted the package and said that it wasn't allowed to send unsigned bank cards.
Metro Bank blocked the wrong card and my card with 8 weeks left on it was swallowed by the ATM. At least I have come up with a solution for now. As to how good this will work out in the weeks to come, we'll have to wait and see.
Footnote:
Well, I hope you have enjoyed by lock back at the last 2 years. You can follow me on Twitter and Facebook.
I have to leave Mexico at the end of January and for sure I will be blogging as I go so stay tuned.
Stay safe, Happy New Year and thanks to all my readers and followers.
I have to leave Mexico at the end of January and for sure I will be blogging as I go so stay tuned.
Stay safe, Happy New Year and thanks to all my readers and followers.